Garage HVAC Questions

[rnavarro]

Sorry to dig up the old thread, I just saw a post and wanted to answer open questions.

Didn't mean to solicit a bunch more feedback.

But as steveray said, you are wanting to turn an unconditioned space into a conditioned space. The codes are concerned with energy consumption of buildings and as such, require conditioned spaces to be built in a certain way to limit energy use. Insulating walls, ceiling and floors is a big part however, limiting air infiltration/ex-filtration (leakage) is a also a large part. The key problem in meeting the energy code requirements will be the vehicle garage door as it doesn't have sufficient insulation and certainly, can't meet the leakage requirements. In other words, you won't begin the meet the code unless you remove the garage door and replace it with wall construction. Then, the insulation values in the wall and ceiling would need verified (remove all of the gypsum board on the walls for inspection and get into the attic to check depths of insulation. (In Corona, CA, below slab insulation is not required?) Install vapor barrier on walls and seal the heck out of everything. Have a blower door test run and check to make sure the leakage values are within spec. Intall new drywall and finish. Ta-Da! Conditioned space. NOW, have a mechanical contractor run cooling load analysis (and don't forget about telling him about the servers that are generating heat to the space.) ONLY THEN, can the proper size of HVAC system be chosen for that space. And you don't want to oversize a unit as short cycling is hard on the equipment and doesn't result in proper de-humidification of the air. Excess moisture within buildings can cause significant problems. Of course, EVERYTHING I have talked about requires one or more permits, even if YOU, as the homeowner, is the one doing the work. As cda indicated, it is strongly advised that ant electrical work be performed by a qualified and licensed electrical (who has pulled there own permit for the work). There are so many nuances to electrical wiring installation that is is not worth taking a risk on this part of the work. Sizing conductors is only part of the challenge.

This information is useful, and productive.

The garage doors that are installed are steel backed and have 2" of polystyrene insulation, the spec sheet has them at an R-10.

All of the other walls in the garage are already insulated, i would have to do some air sealing for the existing vents.

I appreciate the additional information!

In conclusion, you come to this forum (of mainly code officials) asking for DIY advice. I am (we are) not going to be too helpful towards a DIYer who wants to do something like this on the QT.

I think the average DIY-er gives the few good ones a bad name. I came here in search of knowledge on how to do this correctly. I don't have a day to day working knowledge of all codes, which is why I sought assistance from a "forum of mainly code officials".

I could have easily just done this without asking anyone. However, I figured this place would be more about the pursuit of knowledge than a shaming.

Most places online seem that way, it's a shame really for the few of us that want to do things "by the book".

Everyone is so defensive and dismissive of the few of us that genuinely want to learn.

So if he already had a wimdow in the garage

This is the best option by far, and the one I will likely choose.

We can lock this thread, I've got the knowledge I need to move forward.

 

[cda]

Another route to go

Not sure if was put out there

Is just set down with the Building Dept and say hay for my own comfort, while working in the garage, I want to install a mini unit over a window unit

If I do that will there be any other requirements

See what the answer is.