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Garage mandoor framing to code?

Ammich1

Registered User
Joined
Mar 26, 2019
Messages
9
Location
Portland
CWfiQaCd1H7uVz6MA

This door framing was raised 2 inches to fit the door. Was this done to code(top circle)? Also, is it to code to have daylight coming thru on the bottom sides (lower circles)where the foundation was poured too wide? I am an electrician and know nothing of structural code, so help on this is appreciated. This is new construction and I need to know if this should get pointed out to the inspector. Thank you much.
 
Not my area

But thinking the top will be covered by sheetrock ???

The bottom should be properly sealed, my guess
 
Crappy workmanship, assuming unheated space........don't see a correction I could write.

Welcome!
 
Agreed on the craftsmanship. I had no idea your code talks about rodent proofing. Nice. Thank you.
 
its a stretch but a possibility
G2404.9 (301.14) Rodentproofing. Buildings or structures
and the walls enclosing habitable or occupiable rooms and
spaces in which persons live, sleep or work, or in which feed,
food or foodstuffs are stored, prepared, processed, served or
sold, shall be constructed to protect against the entry of
rodents.
 
Ultimately, it is reaching to cite a code section. Absolutely poor workmanship, however that is mostly not enforceable.
 
I'm from Oregon, but have also worked in Washington, Idaho and Montana. And I can tell you that is not unique to Oregon. I don't see any code violations... yet. Keep in mind, that the picture was taken during the rough-in. The job isn't finished yet.

I'd be more concerned about how they will keep the PEX water lines from freezing in the exterior wall.
 
Jack stud should extend to the foundation. It is a structural member that has no real support. Now, you'd probably never see a problem with it, but it should have never happened in the first place. they ran their plate out over, so they knew what their rough opening size needed to be. All they had to do was to run the jack on by the curb.

Was the door open when you took this photo? Is the door casing on the latch side warped? it appears to make contact on the top and bottom, but have a gap in the middle. It might just need shimmed.

If you are concerned about anything, always point it out to the inspector. One of the services we provide is piece of mind to property owners, whether it's us writing a correction, or just explaining why it won't be an issue.
 
This is finished product, not rough-in. The coil of wire is low voltage garage door control wire. The blue is ENT for a future outlet, it is not to code, as it has five 90 degree bends instead of the four allowed.
 
The door is fully closed. After reading your statement, I will be talking to the inspector. Thank you. I don't want to be that guy... the one that complains about everything and you all have reassured me that I am justified in my concerns. Thanks again.
 
Jack stud should extend to the foundation. It is a structural member that has no real support. Now, you'd probably never see a problem with it, but it should have never happened in the first place. they ran their plate out over, so they knew what their rough opening size needed to be. All they had to do was to run the jack on by the curb.

That's what I would write on my inspection ticket. "Jack stud @ ext. door must bear on foundation wall, bearing on overhanging sill plate not permitted" or something to that effect.

And I don't think citing rodentproofing is stretching or reaching at all - it's in the code, and I can see that your construction doesn't meet the requirement. Therefore, you will fix it.
 
That's what I would write on my inspection ticket. "Jack stud @ ext. door must bear on foundation wall, bearing on overhanging sill plate not permitted" or something to that effect.

And I don't think citing rodentproofing is stretching or reaching at all - it's in the code, and I can see that your construction doesn't meet the requirement. Therefore, you will fix it.

What he said!!:D
 
What's on the other side of the door would help? If open to outside, distance to the main structure? Drywall may be needed on the wall, If opening into a basement, a door with a self-closing devise maybe required.

As far as the hole, if the AHJ adopted the IPMC, see
Section 304.5 Foundation walls , free from open cracks and breaks and shall prevent the entry of rodents and other pest.

304.6
Exterior walls shall be free from holes and maintained weatherproof.
 
The gap at the bottom strike side can be filled with a piece of pressure treated lumber. The top needs a pair of full width horizontal 2"x4"s. I can't say for sure but there might not be an anchor bolt near the end of the bottom plate. I also don't see any toenails where I would expect them. The gap that tmurray spotted is a problem.....he has an eye for this stuff.
Here in California there is no exposed Romex but you indicated that this is finished. What is the shiny surface attached to the ceiling. Is the ceiling flat or pitched?
 
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The ceiling is sheetrocked and the shiny things are brackets to the joists, if I am naming joist correctly.
 
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