• Welcome to the new and improved Building Code Forum. We appreciate you being here and hope that you are getting the information that you need concerning all codes of the building trades. This is a free forum to the public due to the generosity of the Sawhorses, Corporate Supporters and Supporters who have upgraded their accounts. If you would like to have improved access to the forum please upgrade to Sawhorse by first logging in then clicking here: Upgrades

Residential concrete slab help.

7G10fT
7G10fT
 
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Welcome to the new and improved Building Code Forum. We appreciate you being here and hope that you are getting the information that you need concerning all codes of the building trades. This is a free forum to the public due to the generosity of the Sawhorses, Corporate Supporters and Supporters who have upgraded their accounts. If you would like to have improved access to the forum please upgrade to Sawhorse by clicking here: Upgrades



Once you process, it may take till Monday or Tuesday to show you are a member/ Sawhorse

Sorry the person in charge set this up and does a great job, just takes him a day or so to see the payment, love modern tech
 
I think sign out

When you do look at the top of the page and look for something like this


Welcome to the new and improved Building Code Forum. We appreciate you being here and hope that you are getting the information that you need concerning all codes of the building trades. This is a free forum to the public due to the generosity of the Sawhorses, Corporate Supporters and Supporters who have upgraded their accounts. If you would like to have improved access to the forum please upgrade to Sawhorse by clicking here: Upgrades



Once you process, it may take till Monday or Tuesday to show you are a member/ Sawhorse

Sorry the person in charge set this up and does a great job, just takes him a day or so to see the payment, love modern tech
Ok I signed up and paid.
 
Ok . Can you explain how you can see that?

Wood sole plates at all exterior walls on monolithic slabs, wood sole plates of braced wall panels at building interiors on monolithic slabs and all wood sill plates shall be anchored to the foundation with minimum 1/2-inch-diameter (12.7 mm) anchor bolts spaced a maximum of 6 feet (1829 mm) on center or approved anchors or anchor straps spaced as required to provide equivalent anchorage to 1/2-inch-diameter (12.7 mm) anchor bolts. Bolts shall extend a minimum of 7 inches (178 mm) into concrete or grouted cells of concrete masonry units. The bolts shall be located in the middle third of the width of the plate. A nut and washer shall be tightened on each anchor bolt. There shall be a minimum of two bolts per plate section with one bolt located not more than 12 inches (305 mm) or less than seven bolt diameters from each end of the plate section. Interior bearing wall sole plates on monolithic slab foundation that are not part of a braced wall panel shall be positively anchored with approved fasteners. Sill plates and sole plates shall be protected against decay and termites where required by Sections R317 and R318.
 
Wood sole plates at all exterior walls on monolithic slabs, wood sole plates of braced wall panels at building interiors on monolithic slabs and all wood sill plates shall be anchored to the foundation with minimum 1/2-inch-diameter (12.7 mm) anchor bolts spaced a maximum of 6 feet (1829 mm) on center or approved anchors or anchor straps spaced as required to provide equivalent anchorage to 1/2-inch-diameter (12.7 mm) anchor bolts. Bolts shall extend a minimum of 7 inches (178 mm) into concrete or grouted cells of concrete masonry units. The bolts shall be located in the middle third of the width of the plate. A nut and washer shall be tightened on each anchor bolt. There shall be a minimum of two bolts per plate section with one bolt located not more than 12 inches (305 mm) or less than seven bolt diameters from each end of the plate section. Interior bearing wall sole plates on monolithic slab foundation that are not part of a braced wall panel shall be positively anchored with approved fasteners. Sill plates and sole plates shall be protected against decay and termites where required by Sections R317 and R318.
Nice thank you
 
I am going to guess that you decided that contractors know what needs to be done and that you do not need an engineer. Too many small time contractors present themselves as knowing more than they really know. Individuals wanting to build an individual house are their natural prey. Some developers may not be much better.

The only "standards" on acceptable crack widths are promoted by a group of developers and are so generous that you will not find them helpful

While it does not appear that the cracks will cause major problems it should be noted that concrete cracks because of too much water in the concrete and inadequate curing. #3 bars in the slab are totally inadequate to control cracking. My practice was to use a 5" slab with #5 @ 12" OC. I suspect that you will find that the cracks do not occur at the crack control joints which would support my belief that they are not effective. This is why I use more reinforcement than most do recognizing that you generally cannot prevent all cracking but that you can minimize the size of the cracks..

I doubt that the Xypex, which is a good product, will provide you much benefit. Xypex is most effective as a concrete additive. Using Xypex to repair the cracks assumes that the concrete is a major barrier for moisture transmission and the crack is a break in that barrier. It also assumes that there is excessive moisture in the ground that will migrate into the house because no adequate membrane was provided under the slab. Concrete is less effective as a moisture barrier than a good membrane under the slab.

You could provide a troweled layer of Xypex over the whole slab but this will likely create objections where you wish to have exposed concrete floors.

Obviously they placed the footings separately from the slab and did not remove the rock pockets in the footings prior to the second pour. This is a key sign that the contractor didn't know what to do or didn't care.

I would question the number of and location of anchor bolts.

You may find that the end result will be a house not much different from your neighbors and in the absence of major earthquakes or winds will be habitable.

Consult with an engineer to understand what your risks are. Recognize that if you get righteous at this stage you will likely get involved in litigation which will cost you much money and will result in delays. It could be that the cheapest thing to have done was to have an architect and engineer design the building and then hired a different contractor.
 
1/2" diameter anchor bolts at 6 feet on center are totally inadequate when subject to earthquakes and high winds such a tornados and hurricanes.
 
1/2" diameter anchor bolts at 6 feet on center are totally inadequate when subject to earthquakes and high winds such a tornados and hurricanes.
Ok. We're on a hill where it gets a lot of wind. Also this is a 2 story house they're trying to build with 2x4 exterior walls.
 
I am going to guess that you decided that contractors know what needs to be done and that you do not need an engineer. Too many small time contractors present themselves as knowing more than they really know. Individuals wanting to build an individual house are their natural prey. Some developers may not be much better.

The only "standards" on acceptable crack widths are promoted by a group of developers and are so generous that you will not find them helpful

While it does not appear that the cracks will cause major problems it should be noted that concrete cracks because of too much water in the concrete and inadequate curing. #3 bars in the slab are totally inadequate to control cracking. My practice was to use a 5" slab with #5 @ 12" OC. I suspect that you will find that the cracks do not occur at the crack control joints which would support my belief that they are not effective. This is why I use more reinforcement than most do recognizing that you generally cannot prevent all cracking but that you can minimize the size of the cracks..

I doubt that the Xypex, which is a good product, will provide you much benefit. Xypex is most effective as a concrete additive. Using Xypex to repair the cracks assumes that the concrete is a major barrier for moisture transmission and the crack is a break in that barrier. It also assumes that there is excessive moisture in the ground that will migrate into the house because no adequate membrane was provided under the slab. Concrete is less effective as a moisture barrier than a good membrane under the slab.

You could provide a troweled layer of Xypex over the whole slab but this will likely create objections where you wish to have exposed concrete floors.

Obviously they placed the footings separately from the slab and did not remove the rock pockets in the footings prior to the second pour. This is a key sign that the contractor didn't know what to do or didn't care.

I would question the number of and location of anchor bolts.

You may find that the end result will be a house not much different from your neighbors and in the absence of major earthquakes or winds will be habitable.

Consult with an engineer to understand what your risks are. Recognize that if you get righteous at this stage you will likely get involved in litigation which will cost you much money and will result in delays. It could be that the cheapest thing to have done was to have an architect and engineer design the building and then hired a different contractor.
Yes. I'm out of town all the time so I cant over see every day operations. So I hired a building contractor and have seen nothing but inexperienced labor so far.
 
I am going to guess that you decided that contractors know what needs to be done and that you do not need an engineer. Too many small time contractors present themselves as knowing more than they really know. Individuals wanting to build an individual house are their natural prey. Some developers may not be much better.

The only "standards" on acceptable crack widths are promoted by a group of developers and are so generous that you will not find them helpful

While it does not appear that the cracks will cause major problems it should be noted that concrete cracks because of too much water in the concrete and inadequate curing. #3 bars in the slab are totally inadequate to control cracking. My practice was to use a 5" slab with #5 @ 12" OC. I suspect that you will find that the cracks do not occur at the crack control joints which would support my belief that they are not effective. This is why I use more reinforcement than most do recognizing that you generally cannot prevent all cracking but that you can minimize the size of the cracks..

I doubt that the Xypex, which is a good product, will provide you much benefit. Xypex is most effective as a concrete additive. Using Xypex to repair the cracks assumes that the concrete is a major barrier for moisture transmission and the crack is a break in that barrier. It also assumes that there is excessive moisture in the ground that will migrate into the house because no adequate membrane was provided under the slab. Concrete is less effective as a moisture barrier than a good membrane under the slab.

You could provide a troweled layer of Xypex over the whole slab but this will likely create objections where you wish to have exposed concrete floors.

Obviously they placed the footings separately from the slab and did not remove the rock pockets in the footings prior to the second pour. This is a key sign that the contractor didn't know what to do or didn't care.

I would question the number of and location of anchor bolts.

You may find that the end result will be a house not much different from your neighbors and in the absence of major earthquakes or winds will be habitable.

Consult with an engineer to understand what your risks are. Recognize that if you get righteous at this stage you will likely get involved in litigation which will cost you much money and will result in delays. It could be that the cheapest thing to have done was to have an architect and engineer design the building and then hired a different contractor.
If you actually go to the link I provide, they do have a fix for the cracks, which I have specified, and was used and prevented water intrusion into a basement that continually leaked prior to the use of Xypex. don't poo-poo something unless you know.
 
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