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Bi-fold garage-house door

Mr. Inspector

Mr. Inspector

SAWHORSE
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
4,099
Location
Poconos/eastern PA
I would like to open a discussion on this.

I have a 5' opening between my house and garage in which I would like to install a bi-fold door and add weatherstripping so it seals. The state has deleted the words "self closing" in the 2015 IRC R302.5.1. I don't see why a steel bifold door cannot be used. The code does not require it to be a swinging, bi-fold or sliding door and does not require a latch but I will put one on anyway.


Is there a problem with this? Please provide a section(s).
 
Do they make a bi-fold door that meets the code requirements
Other openings between the garage and residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors,
 
The large opening is required to get to the front of the WH and furnace for repairs and replacement in a tight utility room/closet between the garage and the house. The wall between the utility room and the house cannot be sealed because a return vent in the wall.
 
Wonder if a bi-fold door has been tested by the UL fire guy's, bet it would fail, depending on the set-up.
 
Rick18071 said:
The large opening is required to get to the front of the WH and furnace for repairs and replacement in a tight utility room/closet between the garage and the house. The wall between the utility room and the house cannot be sealed because a return vent in the wall.
Click to expand...


So there is nothing in the opening now??

We are talking about an existing house ???
 
cda said:
I am thinking a two foot lock in place door and a three foot swing door??
Click to expand...
That's what I was thinking when I read the beginning of this thread. I see several vintages of doing it this way and no disadvantages compared to the bifold. It certainly would be much easier to air seal and it would provide better insulating properties.
 
The other thing is this is his castle

He kind of can pass his own building code and do what he wants, till time to sell
 
I been doing this weekend hobby project for about 10 years. Not in a hurry to get a C. O. so they can tax it but the existing part of the house is livable (and using the additions too). The house is almost finished except for finishing some deck guards, handrails and interior trim besides the garage work.

This is for an 2 floor addition on the house and 2nd floor over the attached garage including this utility closet and new HVAC. Drywall has been already installed in the garage (not spackled) and I am to the point of finishing off the interior of the garage.
The opening is an odd size to the utility closet. I have drywall over it temporary now because I use the house and garage. Also thinking about getting barn door hardware and attaching some OSB together or something lighter to get the required 1-3/8" solid wood door thickness. Odd the IRC does't require doors to seal or latch.

Maybe the state took the requirement for a auto door closer so you can use other doors besides swinging doors?

While we are on this subject I always wondered about other inspectors required spackling the seams and/or screws of the drywall on the garage/house wall/ceiling. The code only requires sealing around vents, pipes, ducts, cables and wires per R302.11 Idem 4.

I hate spackling, I have sore shoulders and the garage is a 3 car. If you do require drywall seams to be sealed would you allow caulk?
 
Rick, you might want to run down to the local Habitat Store or Re-use store, might find a couple of solid doors on the cheap. I think the proceeds go to the Habitat projects? Just a thought.
 
Rick18071 said:
I been doing this weekend hobby project for about 10 years. Not in a hurry to get a C. O. so they can tax it but the existing part of the house is livable (and using the additions too). The house is almost finished except for finishing some deck guards, handrails and interior trim besides the garage work.

This is for an 2 floor addition on the house and 2nd floor over the attached garage including this utility closet and new HVAC. Drywall has been already installed in the garage (not spackled) and I am to the point of finishing off the interior of the garage.
The opening is an odd size to the utility closet. I have drywall over it temporary now because I use the house and garage. Also thinking about getting barn door hardware and attaching some OSB together or something lighter to get the required 1-3/8" solid wood door thickness. Odd the IRC does't require doors to seal or latch.

Maybe the state took the requirement for a auto door closer so you can use other doors besides swinging doors?

While we are on this subject I always wondered about other inspectors required spackling the seams and/or screws of the drywall on the garage/house wall/ceiling. The code only requires sealing around vents, pipes, ducts, cables and wires per R302.11 Idem 4.

I hate spackling, I have sore shoulders and the garage is a 3 car. If you do require drywall seams to be sealed would you allow caulk?
Click to expand...



So do the approved plans show the opening??

Same size as is there?

What kind of opening protection does it show??



When you have finished product
If you walk from the garage, thru the wash room, will the other side be open to the house??? Or will you have to open another door to get into the house??
 
So do the approved plans show the opening?? yes

Same size as is there? not marked

What kind of opening protection does it show?? not marked



When you have finished product
If you walk from the garage, thru the wash room, will the other side be open to the house??? Or will you have to open another door to get into the house?? not a wash room, it's a utility closet.
 
Rick18071 said:
So do the approved plans show the opening?? yes

Same size as is there? not marked

What kind of opening protection does it show?? not marked



When you have finished product
If you walk from the garage, thru the wash room, will the other side be open to the house??? Or will you have to open another door to get into the house?? not a wash room, it's a utility closet.
Click to expand...



So finished product, will you be able to walk from the garage, thru the utility closet, into the house??


Or is it just a closet in the garage??
 
“””I have a 5' opening between my house and garage””

A simple hand drawn sketch of this posted might clear up your question
 
Here is a drawing of my utility closet. But my question really is does anyone have an objection to using a door to separate the garage and the house with a door that is not a swinging door like a bi-fold or barn door as long as it meets the required thickness?
utility closet.JPG
 
Rick18071 said:
Here is a drawing of my utility closet. But my question really is does anyone have an objection to using a door to separate the garage and the house with a door that is not a swinging door like a bi-fold or barn door as long as it meets the required thickness?
View attachment 3153
Click to expand...


In that scenario no

I thought there was also access to the house, thru the garage

Plus since the state does not require self closing ?? Does it really matter


But have you considered smells and co will get into the house????



How about a
Fire rated damper for the vent???

Be the first one on your block to have one installed.
 
I guess the real question

Are you providing the required seperation between the garage and house????
 
I wonder how the open return vent provides the separation,

But sounds like you are trying to use the door to do that??

Not sure if that meets the intent.

Even with that door there, I do not think I would want the return vent open between the garage and living area in my house..
 
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