Building your own trusses

[atvjoel]

Thanks for hand holding first and foremost, I am just trying to build a home for my family its just a 24x36 ranch style home and want to save as much as I can. I got a quote for 12k for my trusses I can build them for 4k myself, 1/3rd the cost.

details
1- I am in Alaska outside the city limits. I have autocad and can build them perfectly, no different then the plant. Obviously I will need to fabricate a truss press and not smack the plates in with a hammer.
2-The design I already have given by Spenard Builders Supply has dimensions and everything including the mending plates and design and load criteria, wind, snow etc.
3-outside city limits so I will be on purely intrnational building code.

My inspector said "they have to be engineered." I am reading through International Building Code and does not say they have to have stamped specs to accompany the trusses assuming its residential under certain criteria, which my place is small simple single story home. I also read some detail here https://www.structuremag.org/?p=14283

I want to build the trusses myself. I am not going to say a single thing to my inspector but i am wondering if he calls it on me am I in the right here? I am not a code wizard i am reading I just dont see where it says you cant build them unless they are overseen by an engineer. Obviously they have to have proper design, which I already have in specs given to me with Spenard Builders Supply quote/layout sheets. They have everything on there.

Am i in the right here? Just want my guns loaded if I do this and the inspector tells me the need to be from the plant and stamped.

Thanks in advance appreciate any response.

 

[atvjoel]

Thanks for hand holding first and foremost, I am just trying to build a home for my family its just a 24x36 ranch style home and want to save as much as I can. I got a quote for 12k for my trusses I can build them for 4k myself, 1/3rd the cost.

details
1- I am in Alaska outside the city limits. I have autocad and can build them perfectly, no different then the plant. Obviously I will need to fabricate a truss press and not smack the plates in with a hammer.
2-The design I already have given by Spenard Builders Supply has dimensions and everything including the mending plates and design and load criteria, wind, snow etc.
3-outside city limits so I will be on purely intrnational building code.

My inspector said "they have to be engineered." I am reading through International Building Code and does not say they have to have stamped specs to accompany the trusses assuming its residential under certain criteria, which my place is small simple single story home. I also read some detail here https://www.structuremag.org/?p=14283

I want to build the trusses myself. I am not going to say a single thing to my inspector but i am wondering if he calls it on me am I in the right here? I am not a code wizard i am reading I just dont see where it says you cant build them unless they are overseen by an engineer. Obviously they have to have proper design, which I already have in specs given to me with Spenard Builders Supply quote/layout sheets. They have everything on there.

Am i in the right here? Just want my guns loaded if I do this and the inspector tells me the need to be from the plant and stamped.

Thanks in advance appreciate any response.

Long day 24'x64' dont know why I said 36 been up since 4am. Thank you all this is great forum

 

[cda]

Well in the old days people did it.

I see them do it at job sites???

Just don’t call them trusses

Thanks for hand holding first and foremost, I am just trying to build a home for my family its just a 24x36 ranch style home and want to save as much as I can. I got a quote for 12k for my trusses I can build them for 4k myself, 1/3rd the cost.

details
1- I am in Alaska outside the city limits. I have autocad and can build them perfectly, no different then the plant. Obviously I will need to fabricate a truss press and not smack the plates in with a hammer.
2-The design I already have given by Spenard Builders Supply has dimensions and everything including the mending plates and design and load criteria, wind, snow etc.
3-outside city limits so I will be on purely intrnational building code.

My inspector said "they have to be engineered." I am reading through International Building Code and does not say they have to have stamped specs to accompany the trusses assuming its residential under certain criteria, which my place is small simple single story home. I also read some detail here https://www.structuremag.org/?p=14283

I want to build the trusses myself. I am not going to say a single thing to my inspector but i am wondering if he calls it on me am I in the right here? I am not a code wizard i am reading I just dont see where it says you cant build them unless they are overseen by an engineer. Obviously they have to have proper design, which I already have in specs given to me with Spenard Builders Supply quote/layout sheets. They have everything on there.

Am i in the right here? Just want my guns loaded if I do this and the inspector tells me the need to be from the plant and stamped.

Thanks in advance appreciate any response.

You can ask nicely for the code sections requiring what he is requiring

 

[cda]

Not my area but check this

R301.1.3 Engineered Design

Where a building of otherwise conventional construction contains structural elements exceeding the limits of Section R301 or otherwise not conforming to this code, these elements shall be designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice. The extent of such design need only demonstrate compliance of nonconventional elements with other applicable provisions and shall be compatible with the performance of the conventional framed system. Engineered design in accordance with the International Building Code is permitted for buildings and structures, and parts thereof, included in the scope of this code


R301.1 Application

Buildings and structures, and parts thereof, shall be constructed to safely support all loads, including dead loads, live loads, roof loads, flood loads, snow loads, wind loads and seismic loads as prescribed by this code. The construction of buildings and structures in accordance with the provisions of this code shall result in a system that provides a complete load path that meets the requirements for the transfer of loads from their point of origin through the load-resisting elements to the foundation. Buildings and structures constructed as prescribed by this code are deemed to comply with the requirements of this section


Than maybe go to and show you hit each element



802.10 Wood Trusses

R802.10.1 Truss Design Drawings


Truss design drawings, prepared in conformance to Section R802.10.1, shall be provided to the building official and approved prior to installation. Truss design drawings shall be provided with the shipment of trusses delivered to the job site. Truss design drawings shall include, at a minimum, the following information:

1. Slope or depth, span and spacing.
2. Location of all joints.
3. Required bearing widths.
4. 
   Design loads as applicable.
   1. 4.1. Top chord live load (as determined from Section R301.6).
   2. 4.2. Top chord dead load.
   3. 4.3. Bottom chord live load.
   4. 4.4. Bottom chord dead load.
   5. 4.5. Concentrated loads and their points of application.
   6. 4.6. Controlling wind and earthquake loads.
5. Adjustments to lumber and joint connector design values for conditions of use.
6. Each reaction force and direction.
7. Joint connector type and description such as size, thickness or gage and the dimensioned location of each joint connector except where symmetrically located relative to the joint interface.
8. Lumber size, species and grade for each member.
9. 
   Connection requirements for:
   1. 9.1. Truss to girder-truss.
   2. 9.2. Truss ply to ply.
   3. 9.3. Field splices.
10. Calculated deflection ratio or maximum description for live and total load.
11. Maximum axial compression forces in the truss members to enable the building designer to design the size, connections and anchorage of the permanent continuous lateral bracing. Forces shall be shown on the truss design drawing or on supplemental documents.
12. Required permanent truss member bracing location

 

[patrickjames]

R802.10.2 Design

Wood trusses shall be designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice. The design and manufacture of metal-plate-connected wood trusses shall comply with ANSI/TPI 1. The truss design drawings shall be prepared by a registered professional where required by the statutes of the jurisdiction in which the project is to be constructed in accordance with Section R106.1.

 

[Mark K]

You may want to ask how much your time is worth. I suspect that the difference is because the employees at the truss company are getting paid and you are doing the work for free. I further suspect that the truss company employees are more efficient than you and will spend fewer hours. So even if you value your time less than what the truss company workers are paid it may still be more cost effective for them to do the work. Also consider that the truss company will be faster than you. Do you want to be enclosed by winter?

As to the question of whether you have to hire an engineer that may be a question for the state agency that licenses engineers. There may be an exception if you as the homeowner are doing it for the house you will be living in. Check with the licensing body. In spite of the language in the IRC it is the state licensing statutes that determines whether something must be designed by an engineer.

I suspect that from the building code perspective you likely only have to show that your design complies with the building code provisions. But in this case it is unlikely that you can do this if you have not had an engineering education and were knowledgeable regarding the standards governing wood truss design.

Was the design provided by the building supply company stamped and sealed by a registered engineer. If not the building supply company may be practicing engineering without a license. Has the engineer who stamped the truss design recognized that the design you have is appropriate for your project.

Who designs "...the size, connections and anchorage of the permanent continuous lateral bracing."?

You may want to hire an engineer to do the engineering.

 

[TheCommish]

Manufactured Truss use a lot a machine test lumber with higher stress values than SPF or other sawn lumber, that being said the lumber you buy at the big box or lumber yard is not he same material a the truss manufactures uses.

 

[SDS]

Is there some reason you can't just put up as ridge beam and rafters on that size home?

As a former truss mfg the answer to your question is no...

The answer you're looking for though is this...get an engineer to stamp a truss design using plywood gussets instead of metal plates...perfectly legal to accomplish what you want to do...

If you do it without a stamp on a design you're likely to be asked to provide supporting engineering or tear it out

 

[atvjoel]

R802.10.2 Design

Wood trusses shall be designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice. The design and manufacture of metal-plate-connected wood trusses shall comply with ANSI/TPI 1.

You may want to ask how much your time is worth. I suspect that the difference is because the employees at the truss company are getting paid and you are doing the work for free. I further suspect that the truss company employees are more efficient than you and will spend fewer hours. So even if you value your time less than what the truss company workers are paid it may still be more cost effective for them to do the work. Also consider that the truss company will be faster than you. Do you want to be enclosed by winter?

As to the question of whether you have to hire an engineer that may be a question for the state agency that licenses engineers. There may be an exception if you as the homeowner are doing it for the house you will be living in. Check with the licensing body. In spite of the language in the IRC it is the state licensing statutes that determines whether something must be designed by an engineer.

I suspect that from the building code perspective you likely only have to show that your design complies with the building code provisions. But in this case it is unlikely that you can do this if you have not had an engineering education and were knowledgeable regarding the standards governing wood truss design.

Was the design provided by the building supply company stamped and sealed by a registered engineer. If not the building supply company may be practicing engineering without a license. Has the engineer who stamped the truss design recognized that the design you have is appropriate for your project.

Who designs "...the size, connections and anchorage of the permanent continuous lateral bracing."?

You may want to hire an engineer to do the engineering.

We have State Certified Building Inspectors that provide you a letter after final inspection just stating your building meets minimum code standards, in turn will qualify for different lending types if you go to sell it. I am not required to hire an inspector, I am just doing it by choice to hold the equity in case i ever want to sell it. They provided me all the design criteria on a PDF. They (Spenard Builders Supply) Stated a stamp is not required unless its commercial in our area but they said they can forward the request to engineering to have the PDF they gave me stamped. They are charging $333 a truss. Materials is about $100-$130 each. There is a solid $200 a truss on the table. Sit on my 2 weeks off and make 6-8k thats pretty good chunk of money for anyones standards. I can build probably around 3-5 a day depending which truss type I am building (I have 3 types) and i have a 2 week on 2 week off schedule so that's not an insignificant amount of money. I only make $38 an hour at work.

 

[atvjoel]

Is there some reason you can't just put up as ridge beam and rafters on that size home?

As a former truss mfg the answer to your question is no...

The answer you're looking for though is this...get an engineer to stamp a truss design using plywood gussets instead of metal plates...perfectly legal to accomplish what you want to do...

If you do it without a stamp on a design you're likely to be asked to provide supporting engineering or tear it out

It has Engineering, they gave me the entire design on a PDF. I work with Engineers at a Mine Site, "Engineering and Engineers" is a very loose word. I could be a toilet cleaning Engineer by title which just means Janitor. The Truss manufacture said a stamp is not required but they said they can have the PDF stamped if I need them to. The Building Inspector just certifies after final that i am meeting minimum International Building Code code standards here outside city limits in Alaska. We only have 5 or 6 inspections here.

I am reading through code and its not black and white I am getting mixed messages as I am not a 20 year veteran builder I am *sadly* a millennial trying to build a home for his family.

So this article is wrong?
Note that under the IRC, both the residence and the wood Truss design could be performed by persons who are not Registered Design Professionals. There may be times when the Building Official will require the Truss Design Drawings to be prepared and stamped by a Registered Design Professional even though the structure was not. The key to this IRC provision is that if the jurisdiction requires the Construction Documents to be prepared by a Registered Design Professional, then the Truss Design Drawings shall also be prepared by a Registered Design Professional.

 

[atvjoel]

Manufactured Truss use a lot a machine test lumber with higher stress values than SPF or other sawn lumber, that being said the lumber you buy at the big box or lumber yard is not he same material a the truss manufactures uses.

But they say right on the design they are using SPF #2 except the bottom cord which is DF 1800F 1.6E

I am probably barking up wrong tree but its hard to spit out an extra 7k to have someone else build something you know you can do yourself. I have built trusses in the past on 2 un inspected houses its easy, just have to get a jig or at least a template and a home made plate press.

 

[bill1952]

Going through similar process. Did you diy estimate include MSR lumber, as I'm sure the truss manufacturer uses? you can use glue and ply gussets - as designed and specified by an engineer - but try to find MSR lumber. The engineer can design trusses with more commonly available lumber, likely no. 1 or SS, but also larger members - like 6 or 8 wide.

In 24', rafters and a structural ridge - load bearing walls or columns - would be simpler diy. You can lift every rafter. You won't be able to lift home built trusses. Not even with a couple friends. And you might get away without a structural ridge but 24' ceiling joists will be tricky. But dead simple and tolerant. And all by the book.

 

[atvjoel]

Going through similar process. Did you diy estimate include MSR lumber, as I'm sure the truss manufacturer uses? you can use glue and ply gussets - as designed and specified by an engineer - but try to find MSR lumber. The engineer can design trusses with more commonly available lumber, likely no. 1 or SS, but also larger members - like 6 or 8 wide.

In 24', rafters and a structural ridge - load bearing walls or columns - would be simpler diy. You can lift every rafter. You won't be able to lift home built trusses. Not even with a couple friends. And you might get away without a structural ridge but 24' ceiling joists will be tricky. But dead simple and tolerant. And all by the book.

I can build them all for $110-$150 a piece depending which truss I will build as lumber just came way down but yet the Truss Plants have not reflected the drop because they want to pawn their overpriced lumber off on the consumer. They are charging me $333 a truss. Even if it ends up being more then what I calculated and ends up everything shoots up I am still saving 6k in a couple weeks worth of work. Thats 3k a week. After taxes at work i only take home after taxes 3k a week and have to be away from my family to do that.

I can lift them I did it in the past with 2x6 trusses on same width (uninspected) house I built but it was single story you couldnt do it two story. You flip them upside down, get one side up, flip it on its side, slide it over with one guy holding the other end, the other guy lifts up on other wall, you lide it over, then one guy gets in the middle to hold it while other guy blocks. It wouldnt work on a wider home then I am building but it will work on my place.

I am reading through code Its a little convoluted. My inspector said they had to be engineered, but as i mentioned in previous message "engineering" is loose word. We have engineers at this Mine I work at that design blast patterns, none of which are actually licensed in this state.

This article says this and I am trying to verify if its wrong. Spenard Builders Supply said the trusses are not required to have a stamp. They already provided me with all the specs

People on here I much appreciate their advice but can someone call out this article and say its wrong Note that under the IRC, both the residence and the wood Truss design could be performed by persons who are not Registered Design Professionals. There may be times when the Building Official will require the Truss Design Drawings to be prepared and stamped by a Registered Design Professional even though the structure was not. The key to this IRC provision is that if the jurisdiction requires the Construction Documents to be prepared by a Registered Design Professional, then the Truss Design Drawings shall also be prepared by a Registered Design Professional. https://www.structuremag.org/?p=14283

 

[atvjoel]

Not my area but check this

R301.1.3 Engineered Design

Where a building of otherwise conventional construction contains structural elements exceeding the limits of Section R301 or otherwise not conforming to this code, these elements shall be designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice. The extent of such design need only demonstrate compliance of nonconventional elements with other applicable provisions and shall be compatible with the performance of the conventional framed system. Engineered design in accordance with the International Building Code is permitted for buildings and structures, and parts thereof, included in the scope of this code


R301.1 Application

Buildings and structures, and parts thereof, shall be constructed to safely support all loads, including dead loads, live loads, roof loads, flood loads, snow loads, wind loads and seismic loads as prescribed by this code. The construction of buildings and structures in accordance with the provisions of this code shall result in a system that provides a complete load path that meets the requirements for the transfer of loads from their point of origin through the load-resisting elements to the foundation. Buildings and structures constructed as prescribed by this code are deemed to comply with the requirements of this section


Than maybe go to and show you hit each element



802.10 Wood Trusses

R802.10.1 Truss Design Drawings


Truss design drawings, prepared in conformance to Section R802.10.1, shall be provided to the building official and approved prior to installation. Truss design drawings shall be provided with the shipment of trusses delivered to the job site. Truss design drawings shall include, at a minimum, the following information:

1. Slope or depth, span and spacing.
2. Location of all joints.
3. Required bearing widths.
4. 
   Design loads as applicable.
   1. 4.1. Top chord live load (as determined from Section R301.6).
   2. 4.2. Top chord dead load.
   3. 4.3. Bottom chord live load.
   4. 4.4. Bottom chord dead load.
   5. 4.5. Concentrated loads and their points of application.
   6. 4.6. Controlling wind and earthquake loads.
5. Adjustments to lumber and joint connector design values for conditions of use.
6. Each reaction force and direction.
7. Joint connector type and description such as size, thickness or gage and the dimensioned location of each joint connector except where symmetrically located relative to the joint interface.
8. Lumber size, species and grade for each member.
9. 
   Connection requirements for:
   1. 9.1. Truss to girder-truss.
   2. 9.2. Truss ply to ply.
   3. 9.3. Field splices.
10. Calculated deflection ratio or maximum description for live and total load.
11. Maximum axial compression forces in the truss members to enable the building designer to design the size, connections and anchorage of the permanent continuous lateral bracing. Forces shall be shown on the truss design drawing or on supplemental documents.
12. Required permanent truss member bracing location

As I mentioned, I already have the entire design, what materials, what plates. Its all SPF except the bottom chord. If you look closer """""exceeding the limits of Section R301"""" I am still reading if I exceed R301. I am outside city limits but local city specs is 110mph wind, snow load 70# and seismic is D2. We dont have super high winds where I am at and thats insane they rate it for that.

 

[cda]

As I mentioned, I already have the entire design, what materials, what plates. Its all SPF except the bottom chord. If you look closer """""exceeding the limits of Section R301"""" I am still reading if I exceed R301. I am outside city limits but local city specs is 110mph wind, snow load 70# and seismic is D2. We dont have super high winds where I am at and thats insane they rate it for that.

ok getting mixed messages



3-outside city limits so I will be on purely intrnational building code.

My inspector said "they have to be engineered." I am reading through International Building Code

Who is this inspector you talk about???

I know Alaska is a different moose,,,, I heard build first,,, Inspect after built.

So if outside city limits,,,, how do they have jurisdiction . ???

 

[atvjoel]

ok getting mixed messages



3-outside city limits so I will be on purely intrnational building code.

My inspector said "they have to be engineered." I am reading through International Building Code

Who is this inspector you talk about???

I know Alaska is a different moose,,,, I heard build first,,, Inspect after built.

So if outside city limits,,,, how do they have jurisdiction . ???

In Alaska we do not have City Inspectors, or Borough Inspectors (County in lower 48). We have Inspectors Certified by the State to either perform inspections on Existing Homes, or New Construction, or Both. The State Certified Inspectors basically Inspect anywhere outside city limits, because incorporated cities have their own inspectors.

In my case new construction .They inspect and after final they provide a PUR-102 stating you meet minimum code standards which can be given to the banks for proper financing if you ever go to sell it, because without that FHA or VA will not loan on it.

 

[atvjoel]

In Alaska we do not have City Inspectors, or Borough Inspectors (County in lower 48). We have Inspectors Certified by the State to either perform inspections on Existing Homes, or New Construction, or Both. The State Certified Inspectors basically Inspect anywhere outside city limits, because incorporated cities have their own inspectors.

In my case new construction .They inspect and after final they provide a PUR-102 stating you meet minimum code standards which can be given to the banks for proper financing if you ever go to sell it, because without that FHA or VA will not loan on it.

I meant to say we do not have those if you are outside city limits. There is no borough inspectors here, only city, but if you are outside city limits obviously city wont come inspector your construction, the state certified will.

 

[cda]

I meant to say we do not have those if you are outside city limits. There is no borough inspectors here, only city, but if you are outside city limits obviously city wont come inspector your construction, the state certified will.

Thanks

That is what I thought just wanted to confirm

Heard from other alaska inspectors ,,, Sometimes,, they fly in after the building is totally built.

 

[atvjoel]

ok getting mixed messages



3-outside city limits so I will be on purely intrnational building code.

My inspector said "they have to be engineered." I am reading through International Building Code

Who is this inspector you talk about???

I know Alaska is a different moose,,,, I heard build first,,, Inspect after built.

So if outside city limits,,,, how do they have jurisdiction . ???

Also thats not correct here, they have to do most of what your lower 48 peeps do. My last inspection was pressure test for my underground schedule 40. They inspect through the whole process (there is only 6 inspections though). After final you get the PUR-102 to give to a bank if you ever go to sell it.

Inspections not required here yo can build whatever kind of cobbled garbage you want, its just if you go to sell it.

 

[cda]

You can ask for the code section he is citing ,,, to see what it says ,, and that he has one

If he does and will not back off,, should be an appeals process , you can represent yourself

 

[atvjoel]

Thanks

That is what I thought just wanted to confirm

Heard from other alaska inspectors ,,, Sometimes,, they fly in after the building is totally built.

That may be true for some very isolated remote projects but I am 6 minutes to Fred Meyer, and 20 minutes to Home Depot so I dont fit in to that category.

 

[atvjoel]

You can ask for the code section he is citing ,,, to see what it says ,, and that he has one

If he does and will not back off,, should be an appeals process , you can represent yourself

Right on man, thank you. Going to send him an email now just saying I am building them, back your sh!t up if you dont agree (in a nice way)

 

[bill1952]

I can't figure out if you are required to build to any code and if you are, who is the code official. If there is an official and they want RDP sealed truss design drawings in conformance with R802.10, game over. As many building officials have told me, arguing with a b.o. is like wrestling a pig in mud The pig usually wins and likes wrestling in mud.

As far as "engineering" I've never even considered it means other than by a Registered Design Professional.

 

[atvjoel]

I can't figure out if you are required to build to any code and if you are, who is the code official. If there is an official and they want RDP sealed truss design drawings in conformance with R802.10, game over. As many building officials have told me, arguing with a b.o. is like wrestling a pig in mud The pig usually wins and likes wrestling in mud.

As far as "engineering" I've never even considered it means other than by a Registered Design Professional.

There is no building officials outside city limits here. There is no county (Boroughs here) inspectors either, that's why there is state certified inspectors you can hire IF you choose to that are minimally qualified to inspect and verify you are building to minimum code standards. Alaska is wild west of building. Pretty much do whatever you want BUT if you ever want to sell your home under all financing options from a bank then you need the PUR-102 you get after final that you give to the bank so your buyer is not limited to one or limited financing options.

Alaska essentially, do whatever the heck you want, but if you ever want to appeal to broader buyer market then get it inspected so you can provide the inspection letter to the bank stating it has been built to minimum code standards. We do not have standard building officials.