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Plumbing Mistakes Caught on Film

jar546

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Feel free to use this thread to post plumbing defects made by those that should know better.Like this GC who did this without a permit trying to turn a basement of a beauty salon into a massage, nail salon with no egress other than the basement steps but that's another story.

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Just to restore faith in the trades, and give a little eye bleach, here is one I did in San Francisco.



Brent.
 
Francis Vineyard said:
Brent, nice job."you approved the plans" was the reply! Not exactly a defect where finishing a basement the ceiling is 7 ft.



Francis
That would be perfectly acceptable, even desirable in a city loft, or any Blade Runner movie.

Brent.
 
Is thermal insulation required on the potable hot water supply lines (RE: Section 503.2.8,

Exception # 3, in the 2009 Edition of the IECC)?

.
 
Thank you guys.

The blow offs go into the pan. From there they go to garage drain. It's in San Francisco so there are zero property lines. The city collects everything in drains (including rainwater. Gutters and such plumb directly into sewer)

There is a drain next to that bollard.

This was before pipes were wrapped.

R2D2 :) first thing I thought when the vac guys showed up.

Which raises an interesting code question. There are 2 units here and the vac services both. Any issues with that? Project was done about 2007.

Brent.
 
Brent, not a bad job for a hack. :eek: Looks like you were having a bad day when you did that and only a few code violations. :devil Otherwise, not too bad. I've seen worse so don't feel so bad. :surr

No, really. Nice job, very neat and only 1 visible violation on the electrical end.
 
jar546 said:
Brent, not a bad job for a hack. :eek: Looks like you were having a bad day when you did that and only a few code violations. :devil Otherwise, not too bad. I've seen worse so don't feel so bad. :surrNo, really. Nice job, very neat and only 1 visible violation on the electrical end.
Ill guess the long unsecured mc off the furnace? That got cleaned up.

Brent.
 
You're a smart man there Mr. Brent. I think I want to frame a house with you some day just for fun. The only problem is that I square and sheet my walls on the deck and offset the sheathing to cover the rim which ties it in better and makes it more stable when we stand it up. I hear in CA you guys put the sheathing on afterwards.
 
jar546 said:
You're a smart man there Mr. Brent. I think I want to frame a house with you some day just for fun. The only problem is that I square and sheet my walls on the deck and offset the sheathing to cover the rim which ties it in better and makes it more stable when we stand it up. I hear in CA you guys put the sheathing on afterwards.
One of those guys huh? In the city you have to do that because the next house is one inch away. So to frame, ext rock, siding,paint and stand it up.

Normally though speed rules so we like to frame, plumb and line, lock it all off then shear. Just faster, and you don't have to perfectly square the wall on the deck. Not to mention lifting a stiff wall over bolts and holdowns etc. I used to piece shear and would do a 2 story in a day on my own (or starve).

But yea. In the city you need Procter jacks.

Also, if I ever hit the 200 million $ lottery, ill just go around building houses for fun. I dig it. I want to be conarb :)

Brent.
 
ICE said:
Mtlogcabin mentioned that because it is a violation as are the bottom seismic straps.
What's the correct way? Just running them to the deck then the drain? Remember there's no exterior access.

And why not bottom strap ? I've had to add those when forgotten. Are they too low?

Brent

ETA: I see they need to be 4" above the valve.
 
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MASSDRIVER said:
What's the correct way? Just running them to the deck then the drain? Remember there's no exterior access. And why not bottom strap ? I've had to add those when forgotten. Are they too low?

Brent

ETA: I see they need to be 4" above the valve.
4" is the rule but I was teasing. I have never written the correction unless the hardware was a knuckle buster.

The T&P draining into pan is wrong. The water would hit the pan, rebound out off the pan and soak the deck. Take it through the deck 6" above the floor.
 
ICE said:
4" is the rule but I was teasing. I have never written the correction unless the hardware was a knuckle buster.The T&P draining into pan is wrong. The water would hit the pan, rebound out off the pan and soak the deck. Take it through the deck 6" above the floor.
You said that there is a floor drain so perhaps the floor slopes to the drain and if not that, maybe the garage floor slopes to the door. Worst case, plumb it to next to the garage door and take it outside.
 
ICE said:
You said that there is a floor drain so perhaps the floor slopes to the drain and if not that, maybe the garage floor slopes to the door. Worst case, plumb it to next to the garage door and take it outside.
But then how do you address the water over 140 degrees into the sanitary?...IPC 701.7.... :)
 
steveray said:
But then how do you address the water over 140 degrees into the sanitary?...IPC 701.7.... :)
I don't think we would allow a garage floor to drain into the sanitary sewer....and why would we call it a "sanitary" sewer.
 
ICE said:
I don't think we would allow a garage floor to drain into the sanitary sewer....and why would we call it a "sanitary" sewer.
I think it's specific to San Francisco. All Garages center-slope to a drain. It's typical for rain scuppers to be on the interior and plumbed directly into the waste. There is always a sidewalk vent outside the building line in front of the house, so you see what looks like a bronze or cast shower drain every 25 feet.

Brent.
 
You would think a floor drain in the middle of the garage would lead to people taking advantage of this while doing an oil change...
 
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