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Townhome flashing asphalt to metal standing seam

tbz

Silver Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,250
Location
PA/NJ - Borderlands
End unit town home, asphalt roof on unit next door they are pulling off the current asphalt roof and will be installing a new standing seam metal roof on the other unit.

Does anyone have any information on how this seam should be handled?

I can't find anything on roofing sites and the roofer looked squirrelly eyed when I asked for how they were going to do it and responded, we are just running a flashing.

Thanks
 
You won't find that in either manufacturers installation instructions....

R904.1 Scope. The requirements set forth in this section shall
apply to the application of roof covering materials specified
herein. Roof assemblies shall be applied in accordance with
this chapter and the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Installation of roof assemblies shall comply with the applicable
provisions of Section R905.

Could possibly treat it like a valley?

R905.2.8.2 Valleys. Valley linings shall be installed in
accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions before
applying shingles. Valley linings of the following types
shall be permitted:
1. For open valleys (valley lining exposed) lined
with metal, the valley lining shall be not less than
24 inches (610 mm) wide and of any of the corrosion-
resistant metals in Table R905.2.8.2.
2. For open valleys, valley lining of two plies of
mineral-surfaced roll roofing, complying with
ASTM D 3909 or ASTM D 6380 Class M, shall
be permitted. The bottom layer shall be 18 inches
(457 mm) and the top layer not less than 36
inches (914 mm) wide.
 
Townhome implies HOA, or at least a property manager. Wonder if they signed off on the new roof.
 
Was there previously a cricket to facilitate water run-off between the units, or am I not picturing this correctly?
 
I don't think you'll find a manufacturers' detail for this, but maybe.

It'll look stupid but if they have to tear off the shingles maybe build a short, thin parapet wall at the junction between the units, then step flash the shingle side and cap the whole thing.

The easiest way would be to leave the existing shingles, run L flashing for a straight edge at the end of "their" roof with some tar or other goop under it, and roll on.
 
See color difference in the roof, blue arrow. 2 different properties.

The one on the right is going to be redone.

They Can't roof over, 2 layers existing, needs to be pulled.

roof line.JPG
 
You won't find that in either manufacturers installation instructions....
You seem to forget this language found in pretty much every code:

The provisions of this code are not intended to prevent the installation of any material or to prohibit any design or method of construction not specifically prescribed by this code,
 
There's only one more unit before the other end? If I owned the roofing company I'd be chewing on my salesman for not selling the neighbor a new roof.
 
"It'll look stupid but if they have to tear off the shingles maybe build a short, thin parapet wall at the junction between the units, then step flash the shingle side and cap the whole thing."

This is the only way I can think of to avoid causing leaks to the shingle roof side. It would be best to do it now instead of having to come back and do it after a court battle.
 
Craver is right ... sell the next section of roof. The ease of running standard installation to the end vs a custom field designed mishmash would be worth selling at cost if necessary. And less potential leaks.
 
There's only one more unit before the other end? If I owned the roofing company I'd be chewing on my salesman for not selling the neighbor a new roof.
I grabbed the best picture I could, but there are 4 units in a row, the one who is looking to replace with metal is on the far right, not in the picture, just tried to grab a good photo of provide a visual. Photo is an example, not actual.

The two units on the far left are only 2 years old. then ridge cap seam, 8 year old roof, ridge cap seam and then this unit.
 
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