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Beam End Connections

Chrimarl1265

Registered User
Joined
Oct 6, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Connecticut
Do beams have to be connected at ends?
Farmhouse built in 1871 - 2 x 6 floor joists - 10' span - house is 30 ft wide.
Fieldstone foundation - I want to lose some of the bounce as well as level floor joists. A beam at 5' (3 -1.75 x 7.25 lvl) supported by 3 columns with saddle plates.
No way to secure ends of beam to foundation and sitting below floor joists. Is that OK or does the beam have to be secured at ends?
I know I can sister but a beam is my preferred method.
 
I believe you can. But how far out??
You should be able to get this answered by the lumberyard you buy the LVLs from. They typically have on staff, or access to a structural engineer to qualify the beam sizes and spans. Around here, some charge 100 bucks or so to do the calculations, but take that off the cost of the LVLs if you buy them.
 
Confusing description. Post a drawing of the existing and proposed conditions with dimensions and some photos. Otherwise hire an engineer.
 
Mac ... he wants to install a triple LVL at the midpoint of the 10 ft joist span to reduce deflection. But he doesnt want to connect the ends of the 30 ft LVL’s to the stone foundation walls.
 
< * * >

Perhaps ** steveray ** can provide the applicable chapter and section(s)
that will either: allow the non-connection at the ends, or will require the
connection at the ends......He is one of the resident, Connecticut SME's
[ i.e. - Subject Matter Experts ] on this Forum.


< * * >
 
Do beams have to be connected at ends?
Farmhouse built in 1871 - 2 x 6 floor joists - 10' span - house is 30 ft wide.
Fieldstone foundation - I want to lose some of the bounce as well as level floor joists. A beam at 5' (3 -1.75 x 7.25 lvl) supported by 3 columns with saddle plates.
No way to secure ends of beam to foundation and sitting below floor joists. Is that OK or does the beam have to be secured at ends?
I know I can sister but a beam is my preferred method.
What you propose is over and above code. You wouldn't need a permit here. As long as there is adequate support for the beam, there is no need to secure it to the foundation. LVL is not prone to twisting so it should preform well. Were it me, I would solid block between the floor joists and have a few A35s to the beam.

By the way, solid blocking at mid span tends to firm up a floor all by itself.
 
Its the 30 ft width I didn't understand. Usually the "building width" of a house is measured perpendicular to the center girder. If the house is 20 ft wide and 30 ft long, the span of the new beams would be about 14 ft. stopping short of the foundation walls. If that's correct, three 7.25 LVL's (2.0 E, 3100 Fb) should limit the max. deflection to about L/320. That's the best way to do it if you want to level the floor.
 
Same section allows or disallows it...Depending on who you can convince...

R301.1 Application. Buildings and structures, and parts
thereof, shall be constructed to safely support all loads,
including dead loads, live loads, roof loads, flood loads, snow
loads, wind loads and seismic loads as prescribed by this
code. The construction of buildings and structures in accordance
with the provisions of this code shall result in a system
that provides a complete load path that meets the requirements
for the transfer of loads from their point of origin
through the load-resisting elements to the foundation. Buildings
and structures constructed as prescribed by this code are
deemed to comply with the requirements of this section.
 
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