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Beam Size for interior load bearing

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leo2007

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Joined
Jun 14, 2022
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Hello All,
I have a question regarding the size of the beam for a +/- 11'-0" Span. Please refer to image below.
This wall is currently a load bearing wall and we want to demo a portion of it (about 4'-8") to make a bigger opening to the kitchen.
I was wondering if a (2) 2x10 beam is adequate to support the opening. Above this wall is only roof structure and ceiling joist.
Please advise.
https://imgur.com/a/VZgDPXe
 
Not enough info. What is the span of the ceiling joists? What are the spans of the roof rafters that are bearing on it? What is the ground snow load?
 
I would be surprised to learn that a #2 or better 4x10 is too small....but hey now, if you want to engineer it, go with a 4x12. Of course if that wall has plywood or OSB sheathing, then you're going to really engineer it.

What you haven't told us is the size and span of the ceiling joists. Is there HVAC equipment sitting above? How about attic storage? Purlin brace(s)? You didn't mention the foundation so perhaps you have a handle on that ....but....Is there a foundation under the wall? Will there be a need for an additional footing because of a point load?

Something that is missed quite often is the change that was made to the spacing of receptacles. I just might require a few new receptacles. Now some would call that inflicting code. And then there's the possible abandoned cable to deal with.
 
Last edited:
I see the LVL that I assume was an engineered decision....so why the question regarding the 2x10?
 
ICE said:
I see the LVL that I assume was an engineered decision....so why the question regarding the 2x10?
Click to expand...
ICE,
To clarify, we are planning to put a (2) 2x10 beam in lieu of the demo-ed interior load bearing wall. I am not sure if the beam size is adequate. You think LVL beam is better?
Please advise.
 
Does the wall support anything except maybe ceiling? Seems no roof loads. Is roof trusses or rafters? If trusses to load bearing exterior walls, shouldn't need anything. A cross section - or even photo of attic (?) over would help.
 
bill1952 said:
Does the wall support anything except maybe ceiling? Seems no roof loads. Is roof trusses or rafters? If trusses to load bearing exterior walls, shouldn't need anything. A cross section - or even photo of attic (?) over would help.
Click to expand...
bill1952,
The wall only support ceiling. We have rafters not trusses. We initially thought the roof load would bear on the exterior walls.
 
So the beam needs to support the middle half of the ceiling - about 13' or in the ballpark of 130 plf. Without access to anything at the moment, I'd guess dbl 2x10 is overkill but it needs to be designed either from a prescriptive code like the IRC or by a registered design professional.

Trickier but may be worth considering for design, install a beam in attic and be able to finish ceiling flush through opening. Not an easy connection, just aesthetically more pleasing to some.
 
Attic use?
Purlins?
A/C Equipment in the Attic?
Water heater in the attic?
Do the ceiling joists clear span the width or are they spliced in the middle or are they spliced on your wall?
Is there a beam in the basement/crawlspace below the wall in question?
What makes it load bearing?
 
I checked the (2) 2x10 for 130 plf and was going to comment, until I read the post by @jar546 and realized the joists might not even be bearing on this wall.
 
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leo2007,

By proposing to install (2) 2 x 10's over the wider opening,
will you also include a 0.5" flitch plate in between the
2 x 10's, so that the framing will be flush ?......Also, there
are nailing or bolting patterns required for installing these
type of assemblies.........There are numerous web sites on the
internet about constructing flitch plates.

Because of labor costs, a designed LVL might be cheaper.

# ~ # ~ #
 
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