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Door size from house to garage

P

plumkrazy.jp

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Joined
Aug 17, 2020
Messages
8
Location
California
I'm new to this forum, but not new to the headache of trying to find code find & what will pass inspection for my Remodel. I currently have no door from house into the garage. I asked the building inspector if I could install a door leading from the house into garage without resubmitting my plans&he said I could, as long as he inspects it(he is the inspector for my area so he will be), as long as it is fire rated, self closing & self latching. I knew all that, I failed to ask him about the size of the door. So 2 questions, 1. is there a minimum size for the door leading from the house to garage? 2. Is there any code that says one door can not hit or obstruct another door from opening/closing? Basically I have a door that opens inward that leads from the garage to the back porch & the placement of the door I plan on installing from house to garage opening into garage could hit the other if both doors were open at the same time. Any help would be great. Thank you for your time &knowledge. I have allot more questions I'll post regarding the remodel of my Mom's home. All my contractor "friends" are too busy to be a friend, can't wait till they need a hand or break down on the side of the road on a 100°+ day like this week 109-113 in my area of California
Thanks again
James
 
A garage to house man door cannot be used as part of an egress pathway; therefore, the IRC does not stipulate a minimum doorway width.

That said, you should (IMHO) not do anything other than a 36-in door. The garage man door is typically a preferred location for moving things into the house. Not only during moving (think mattresses and other large furniture), but during the day-to-day activities (think groceries, etc.).
 
Ty J. said:
A garage to house man door cannot be used as part of an egress pathway; therefore, the IRC does not stipulate a minimum doorway width.

That said, you should (IMHO) not do anything other than a 36-in door. The garage man door is typically a preferred location for moving things into the house. Not only during moving (think mattresses and other large furniture), but during the day-to-day activities (think groceries, etc.).
Click to expand...
Thanks for replying. I do plan on using a 36" door unless it hits the other garage door leading to the back porch &there is a code issue with that.
 
plumkrazy.jp said:
Thanks for replying. I do plan on using a 36" door unless it hits the other garage door leading to the back porch &there is a code issue with that.
Click to expand...


welcome

Besides pain

who said the doors cannot collide???

Can you swing the patio door out?

put a closure or spring hinges on the doors?

It never rains in California
 
There is 3 1/2in step down from house to garage. I'm having a tough time posting a pic of plans. Just got a new phone yesterday & it's about to get thrown in the toilet. I'll post as soon as I can figure this thing out or it stops auto installing apps I don't need or want. It's lagging bad & chiming every 5secs. Stupidphones is what they should have called them.
 
Single step down is OK.

Agree with Ty J, no size required, but 36" is good, I went with 32" in my house, regret it, wish it was wider.

And CDA, not an issue with conflicting door swings, other than regret you did not sove it pre-installation.
 
plumkrazy.jp said:
There is 3 1/2in step down from house to garage. I'm having a tough time posting a pic of plans. Just got a new phone yesterday & it's about to get thrown in the toilet. I'll post as soon as I can figure this thing out or it stops auto installing apps I don't need or want. It's lagging bad & chiming every 5secs. Stupidphones is what they should have called them.
Click to expand...


You have to be a forum supporting Sawhorse to direct post

You can make it a link, and post the link or maybe drop box
 
Thanks everone. I think Ty reminded me that since it's not an egress path it shouldn't matter if they swing into each other, except maybe irritate me if I'm stupid &leave the patio doeveryone. You never know in California codes
 
Rupert has a question!

Will a light be required with one step down into the garage space?
 
TheCommish said:
32-inch door is fine, metal insulate exterior door with spring hinge, knob with latch
Click to expand...

Technically the latch isn't required:

R302.5.1 Opening protection. Openings from a private
garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall
not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and
residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less
than 13/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycombcore
steel doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or
20-minute fire-rated doors, equipped with a self-closing
device.
 
Pcinspector1 said:
Rupert has a question!

Will a light be required with one step down into the garage space?
Click to expand...
According to California code- at least one wall switch-controlled lighting outlet shall be installed in hallways, stairways, attached garages, detached garages with electrical power, & outdoor entrances or exits per the CEC Article 210.70(A)(1-2)
 
steveray said:
Technically the latch isn't required:

R302.5.1 Opening protection. Openings from a private
garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall
not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and
residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less
than 13/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycombcore
steel doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or
20-minute fire-rated doors, equipped with a self-closing
device.
Click to expand...
I have to disagree with you on the self latching device because atleast in my county, R302.5.1 states "equiped with a self-closing and self-latching device."
 
2018IRC, R303.7 also requires illumination on the interior stairway and R303.8 requires illumination on the exterior stairway. Wasn't sure if one step or two rises required the lighting or not, looks like they do.

Sometimes doing one thing requires another thing!
 
Pcinspector1 said:
2018IRC, R303.7 also requires illumination on the interior stairway and R303.8 requires illumination on the exterior stairway. Wasn't sure if one step or two rises required the lighting or not, looks like they do.

Sometimes doing one thing requires another thing!
Click to expand...
You got that right. I'm learning everyday that one thing affects another. Rerouting wire, moving outlets & adding a switch today note that I'm putting a door into garage. Pretty sure I'll need to add anchor bolts on each end of the sill plate where I cut the sill plate out for the door opening. This house was built in 1958 also, so things were done a little different back then. Now I understand why the inspector wouldn't sign off or even inspect my rough electrical. I have to have a "combo" inspection, which includes-rough electrical, rough plumbing, framing & rough HVAC all at the same time.
 
plumkrazy.jp said:
Pretty sure I'll need to add anchor bolts on each end of the sill plate where I cut the sill plate out for the door opening.
Click to expand...

Good idea, the door could jiggle the bottom plate a bit when the door is shut.

Did you add any smoke detectors, not sure if California Building Code requires those on remods?
 
You're kidding about California &smoke alarms I hope... this is California, we gotta have hurricane straps on trusses. We have to have a smoke alarm for every bedroom & outside each sleeping area. sill plates need to be anchored with 1/2in bolt embedded in concrete 7inches & have 3"x3" steel washer &within 12inches of the end of sill plates & no more than every 6ft. There's so many ridiculous codes in California. I can't have an electric tankless water heater because of efficiency issues. We have "Green codes" & "energy standards commision" codes. Even the building inspector himself said, "some codes are only in place because someone like Simpson gave a politician a big bag of money to make it code, like for hurricane straps for instance" if you live in California prepare to pay pay pay. I think I pay road taxes 3-4different ways, &our roads are garbage patch jobs &feels like you're on a dirt road most of the time.
 
plumkrazy.jp said:
You're kidding about California &smoke alarms I hope... this is California, we gotta have hurricane straps on trusses. We have to have a smoke alarm for every bedroom & outside each sleeping area. sill plates need to be anchored with 1/2in bolt embedded in concrete 7inches & have 3"x3" steel washer &within 12inches of the end of sill plates & no more than every 6ft. There's so many ridiculous codes in California. I can't have an electric tankless water heater because of efficiency issues. We have "Green codes" & "energy standards commision" codes. Even the building inspector himself said, "some codes are only in place because someone like Simpson gave a politician a big bag of money to make it code, like for hurricane straps for instance" if you live in California prepare to pay pay pay. I think I pay road taxes 3-4different ways, &our roads are garbage patch jobs &feels like you're on a dirt road most of the time.
Click to expand...

They do make all those requirements in a tent!!! And cheaper
 
One of the toughest inspector's I know works the concrete jungle, If you want it done to code you need him, and you want him on that wall!
 
steveray said:
Technically the latch isn't required:

R302.5.1 Opening protection. Openings from a private
garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall
not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and
residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less
than 13/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycombcore
steel doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or
20-minute fire-rated doors, equipped with a self-closing
device.
Click to expand...
yep, you are right, no latch is required on any door front, back, side bedroom... maybe the bathroom

I will give you this in my house that I live in, now if it is rental in MA tenant regulation require a lock on the exterior doors
 
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