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Energy conservation v. Concealed sprinkler heads

AegisFPE

AegisFPE

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
458
Location
Seattle Area; serving the West Coast, and beyond.
This pamphlet released earlier this year by the US Department of Energy, Insulating and Air Sealing Attic Sprinklers, contains some interesting info, such as theoretical temperature of insulated attic sprinkler piping, details of insulating and marking methods, and references to "air dams" to prevent wind from blowing through eave vents and infiltrating insulation.

However, Section 5.3 on page 27 of the pdf, page 17 of the document, shows how to disable a concealed sprinkler.

Section 2.3.1 tells us that unsealed concealed sprinkler housings are bad, and refers us to Section 5 to see how to "properly" seal them.

Granted there is a disclaimer and an alternative approach described in the fine print in Section 3.2, which refers to a tenting method "mentioned by the Fire Protection Research Foundation," but the Department of Energy provides no additional information on such methods that would avoid directly blocking the vent openings of the concealed sprinkler housing.

For example, from Reliable Sprinkler Model RFC56 Installation Instructions:

"...Inspect all sprinklers after installation to ensure that ...the 4 slots in the cup are open and free from any air flow impediment."
Click to expand...
Following the US Department of Energy pamphlet guidance on sealing concealed sprinklers may delay/defeat proper sprinkler operation!
 
Page 2 said:
• These code requirements can be summarized as follows:

• All new residential homes must have a fire sprinkler system installed.

• This is not required in existing residences or for additions in homes without an existing fire sprinkler system

•Fire sprinkler pipe must be protected with insulation and/or heat when freezing is a possibility in unheated attic spaces sprinkler piping



must be completely covered with insulation.

Click to expand...
Since when does every residence have to have a fire sprinkler system?

Page 3 said:
2 Material Selection

2.1 Sprinkler Plumbing



The 2009 and 2012 editions of the IRC prohibit the use of metallic piping for automatic fire sprinkler systems in residences (three or fewer



stories).



Only nonmetallic piping and tubing are to be used. The most commonly used piping material in residential automatic fire sprinkler systems is chlorinated polyvinyl chloride(CPVC)

Click to expand...
Since when do we have to put non-metallic pipe in, no more black iron or copper?
 
Many manufacturers and building inspectors do not allow air sealing around

sprinkler heads and escutcheon plates, so you should verify this before air sealing.

In situations where the air sealing around the sprinkler heads and escutcheon plates is not

allowed, the air barrier could be moved to above the sprinkler plumbing by covering the

assembly with an insulation batt and using spray polyurethane foam to air seal over the batt.
 
Conarb,

From Section R313.2 of the IRC: "Effective January 1, 2011, an automatic residential fire sprinkler system shall be installed in one- and two- family dwellings." So I would say, since two years ago the IRC has required sprinkler systems in all residences.

As for their statement regarding the prohibition of metallic piping, I can't find any such language. The IRC definitely isn't my bailiwick, so maybe someone with a bit more knowledge of the IRC can shed some light on that statement. (I'm interested in it, because, although we reference NFPA 13D instead of 2904 of the IRC, it is most curious that they may not allow metallic piping for some reason.)
 
AegisFPE said:
This pamphlet released earlier this year by the US Department of Energy, Insulating and Air Sealing Attic Sprinklers, contains some interesting info, such as theoretical temperature of insulated attic sprinkler piping, details of insulating and marking methods, and references to "air dams" to prevent wind from blowing through eave vents and infiltrating insulation.However, Section 5.3 on page 27 of the pdf, page 17 of the document, shows how to disable a concealed sprinkler.

Section 2.3.1 tells us that unsealed concealed sprinkler housings are bad, and refers us to Section 5 to see how to "properly" seal them.

Granted there is a disclaimer and an alternative approach described in the fine print in Section 3.2, which refers to a tenting method "mentioned by the Fire Protection Research Foundation," but the Department of Energy provides no additional information on such methods that would avoid directly blocking the vent openings of the concealed sprinkler housing.

For example, from Reliable Sprinkler Model RFC56 Installation Instructions:

Following the US Department of Energy pamphlet guidance on sealing concealed sprinklers may delay/defeat proper sprinkler operation!
Click to expand...
""""""""""For example, from Reliable Sprinkler Model RFC56 Installation Instructions:

"...Inspect all sprinklers after installation to ensure that ...the 4 slots in the cup are open and free from any air flow impediment." """""""""""""

Wonder why???? Seems like the heated air would activate the head??
 
Ivan said:
From Section R313.2 of the IRC: "Effective January 1, 2011, an automatic residential fire sprinkler system shall be installed in one- and two- family dwellings." So I would say, since two years ago the IRC has required sprinkler systems in all residences.
Click to expand...
Ivan:

As I understand it only California has adopted that section statewide, the linked publication is the DOE and is making a nationwide interpretation of the IRC.

As to plastic pipe it will be a cold day in Hell before I'll install plastic pipe in any building.
 
AegisFPE said:
This pamphlet released earlier this year by the US Department of Energy, Insulating and Air Sealing Attic Sprinklers, contains some interesting info, such as theoretical temperature of insulated attic sprinkler piping, details of insulating and marking methods, and references to "air dams" to prevent wind from blowing through eave vents and infiltrating insulation.However, Section 5.3 on page 27 of the pdf, page 17 of the document, shows how to disable a concealed sprinkler.

Section 2.3.1 tells us that unsealed concealed sprinkler housings are bad, and refers us to Section 5 to see how to "properly" seal them.

Granted there is a disclaimer and an alternative approach described in the fine print in Section 3.2, which refers to a tenting method "mentioned by the Fire Protection Research Foundation," but the Department of Energy provides no additional information on such methods that would avoid directly blocking the vent openings of the concealed sprinkler housing.

For example, from Reliable Sprinkler Model RFC56 Installation Instructions:

Following the US Department of Energy pamphlet guidance on sealing concealed sprinklers may delay/defeat proper sprinkler operation!
Click to expand...
Is that just in residential concealed heads?? I do not see the statement in a couple of commercial ones I checked

and is it just reliable ?? checked a couple of tyco residential and did not see the statement

and what happens if they happen to do blow in insulation??
 
cda said:
""""""""""For example, from Reliable Sprinkler Model RFC56 Installation Instructions: "...Inspect all sprinklers after installation to ensure that ...the 4 slots in the cup are open and free from any air flow impediment." """""""""""""

Wonder why???? Seems like the heated air would activate the head??
Click to expand...
Maybe because of the thermal flow dynamics hot air could draw cool air in from any breach and wash the head with cool air preventing activation. ???

Brent.
 
MASSDRIVER said:
Maybe because of the thermal flow dynamics hot air could draw cool air in from any breach and wash the head with cool air preventing activation. ???Brent.
Click to expand...
I believe it is just the opposite. The heat from the fire and the pressure would pass through the 4 slot openings aiding in the activation of the head

Cold is the absence of heat. Summer time attics can reach temps in the low 100's which is far less than a fire so the higher temps will always be where the fire is and the hot gases will pass through the slots during a fire not cold air from the attic.
 
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