Garage Slab Blowout

[Alias]

Houston, we have a problem................View attachment 751View attachment 752View attachment 753The homeowner called me for an inspection about three months after the slab was poured. Needless to say, he is not happy as we examine the slab. There was a blowout on the north side of the slab. The anchor bolts follow the curve of the slab at about a 45 degree angle. I wrote a correction notice. This happened about three weeks ago.Photos 101 & 102 are of the side where the form blew out. It is definitely not straight plus the anchor bolts aren't perpendicular to slab. Photo 103 is of the back edge of the slab where there is definite flaking and divets along the edge of the slab. About the only good news is that the holddown bolts for the bracewall panel are okay. Contractor was in last week with changes, drawn on a piece of notebook paper, not to scale, no info on hardware, etc. :banghd I sent him back to the designer for a change order. Sue, with much thanks to ConArb and Jeff for help with photos!

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[tbz]

So the form had blow out,

Is the concrete in question for strength and thickness or just straight?

If the Concrete is fine except for the uneven edge and bolt placement, just have them saw cut it back, core drill new holes for the bolts and set them in with Hilti or All-Fastener two part epoxy (designed for this) and move on.

If the Concrete is bad and pulling apart, being square and the bolt placement does not matter even if it was dead on, would still need to be removed for bad concrete.

I must be missing something of not enough coffee yet, but either way it is an easy fix, what is with the re-design?

Tom

 

[GHRoberts]

The home owner being happy is not your concern.

The flaking may be a code issue, but the straightness of the concrete edge is not a code issue.

 

[Mule]

The home owner being happy is not your concern. The flaking may be a code issue, but the straightness of the concrete edge is not a code issue.

Unless it is so bad that when you put the wall where it should be that you create a problem where water can get into the structure. Or you can't get the exterior siding to lap below the plate...or..........so I would think it all depends on how bad the blow out is!

 

[KZQuixote]

Looks as if 6" clearance from grade to siding will be a challenge.

 

[pwood]

sue,

they can use wider wall studs( 2x8) and hang the plate. george roberts could make it pencil out. they build wood garages on foundations on dirt where he's from :mrgreen:

 

[FredK]

Saw cut and epoxy some bolts in. No big deal IMHO.

 

[Alias]

So the form had blow out,Is the concrete in question for strength and thickness or just straight?

If the Concrete is fine except for the uneven edge and bolt placement, just have them saw cut it back, core drill new holes for the bolts and set them in with Hilti or All-Fastener two part epoxy (designed for this) and move on.

If the Concrete is bad and pulling apart, being square and the bolt placement does not matter even if it was dead on, would still need to be removed for bad concrete.

I must be missing something of not enough coffee yet, but either way it is an easy fix, what is with the re-design?

Tom

Tom -

Easy fix yes, but when you have a contractor who says to you 'Gee, maybe I shouldn't do concrete', it sends up warning signals. Not only did he mess up on the slab but it is also 2" wider than the plans. The curb and gutter plus curb return are a disaster.

What he wanted to submit for the changes was a chicken scratch drawing of the footing/slab that had no specs on it as to what type of alternatives to use. As I am not authorized to design his fix, I sent him back to the designer. Every time I deal with this contractor I feel as if I'm :beatdhrs

Sue, where the west still lives

 

[Alias]

Looks as if 6" clearance from grade to siding will be a challenge.

Good catch! Actually, here in CA, it is 8" clearance from grade to siding. I've talked to the contractor on two other occassions about the required clearances.

Sue, where the west still lives...................

 

[Alias]

sue,they can use wider wall studs( 2x8) and hang the plate. george roberts could make it pencil out. they build wood garages on foundations on dirt where he's from :mrgreen:

I know. The contractor didn't specify on his chicken scratch drawing what size plate he was going to use to fix the problem.

Sue

 

[tbz]

Ah I see says the blind snow bound dog walker,

I think I would have told him to get a contractor to fix the problem since he could not comprehend the first problem.

But, I see repetitive or as the casinos put it constant verbal suggestions does not process with some.

I guess, slab cut & core set with a little bit of surface grinding was over their head, well

I will say another blessing for your patience dealing with it.

Tom

 

[Uncle Bob]

Sue,

It seems that the anchor bolts are also not the same height above the slab. Many contractors use 8" anchor bolts (when they can get away with it); because they are cheaper. Drop by sometime when they are pouring.

Ten inch (10") anchor bolts are minimum. See 2006 IRC, R403.1.6; "bolts shall extend a minimum of (7") seven inches into masonry or concrete."

Uncle Bob

 

[peach]

fine workmanship... it looks like they TRIED to get the spacing correct.. they'll need to find some equally crooked wood to make it work. ACI has some specific requirements for steel clearances (like from edges).. whether anchor bolts or reinforcing bar.

 

[Alias]

fine workmanship... it looks like they TRIED to get the spacing correct.. they'll need to find some equally crooked wood to make it work. ACI has some specific requirements for steel clearances (like from edges).. whether anchor bolts or reinforcing bar.

Peach -

I was there Friday when they were standing up the wall. I wish I had had a camera with me. Existing midway point anchor bolts hit exactly where the jack studs for the window are located on both ends. Priceless.........

The fix is in on the anchor bolts. Designer brought in specs from Simpson for their fastener, Titan, that fits this application. No epoxy needed which at 20 degrees is a plus.

Sue, where the west still lives.......

 

[Alias]

Sue,It seems that the anchor bolts are also not the same height above the slab. Many contractors use 8" anchor bolts (when they can get away with it); because they are cheaper. Drop by sometime when they are pouring.

Ten inch (10") anchor bolts are minimum. See 2006 IRC, R403.1.6; "bolts shall extend a minimum of (7") seven inches into masonry or concrete."

Uncle Bob

UB -

Anchor bolts don't look right because of the blowout, contractor didn't straighten them up so some are listing one way or tother.

Sue, where the west still lives.........

 

[SCBO1]

KZQ, good catch, that siding will not make the 6" code clearance.

Looks like they need a rat race poured or (block course added) then the slab that is crooked can be back fill over.

pc1