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How to frame skylights for a cape cod

theONEendONLY

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Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Messages
1
Location
New Jersey
Hello all. I had a contractor make a drawing for the town and we agreed to a price for installing skylights, but he disappeared! I decided I'm going to do it myself.


He wrote on the drawings that he would double the headers and the rafters, "ridge to sill". Is this necessary? The original rafters are about 17' long and I don't see how it's possible I can double these up ridge to sill. Just getting those beams upstairs will be a chore.

The other confusing part is, how do I double a rafter if there are these ceiling joists spanning across the two sets of rafters to form my flat ceiling?

Also, I would run into the floor joists(the 1st floor ceiling joists)

I am located in new jersey and my town says they follow "state codes" but I cannot find anything helpful online.

Is it really necessary to double the rafters? I am cutting one rafter to fit the skylights snug between the ceiling joists (which are 16" on center, 2x6). If I don't double but my drawings say that I was going to, will the inspector break my balls? These drawings were already approved.

Pictures are in the link.
 
Welcome!

If the drawings were accepted, then do what the drawings call out.

If you want to modify the design, get a code book and see if it fits the prescriptive code, or get a engineer to design it.

Looking at drawing, back in my framing days, that's what we would have done.
 
Poke a hole in the face of the dormer to get the rafters in. As to getting the new rafters in place....well that's tricky without removing part of the roof. However, there's a question if the new rafter must actually be bearing or simply scabbed to the side of the existing rafter. In other words, the existing rafter might have sufficient section to carry the weight at the ends but not enough strength to prevent deflection.

I'm thinking that's likely the case but I surrendered my medical license after an unfortunate incident. Oh I redid your pictures to get some sense out of them.

BKLw3wPl 2.jpg

attic picture.jpg

Attic#2.jpg
 
If I was your inspector and If you simply scabbed to the side of the existing rafter and without support by the walls and roof ridge I would need something from a licensed architect
 
If I was your inspector and If you simply scabbed to the side of the existing rafter and without support by the walls and roof ridge I would need something from a licensed architect
Me too. An engineer could sub for the architect. Start with an architect … remove the sense of humor … you have an engineer.
 
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