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Is siding necessary???

Dennis

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
745
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Here is an install from another forum and the question was whether or not siding was necessary. My understanding is that the panels will have stone up to it and then a door of stone facing built in front of it. I don't see anything electrically wrong but I am wondering about a building code issue. I am not certain of the exact install.

ry%3D400
 
Rider Rick said:
The window is going to leak.
I assume the window will part of the door configuration. Stone will be around the house just not where the panel is placed. Not sure why they didn't put siding or something there before the panels. The idea is that a box will be built around the meter and panel as it is now- no siding or stone-- with a stone covered door to access it.Does the code require that something be installed on this wall area.
 
Siding....not necessarily...cannot leave the Tyvek exposed, but I would have to look at their manual to see if they call out suitable coverings....then it just comes down to details on weeps and drainage planes and such.....

R703.1 General.

Exterior walls shall provide the building with a weather-resistant exterior wall envelope. The exterior wall envelope shall include flashing as described in Section R703.8. The exterior wall envelope shall be designed and constructed in such a manner as to prevent the accumulation of water within the wall assembly by providing a water-resistive barrier behind the exterior veneer as required by Section R703.2.

R703.8 Flashing.

Approved corrosion-resistive flashing shall be provided in the exterior wall envelope in such a manner as to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the building structural framing components. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish and shall be installed to prevent water from reentering the exterior wall envelope. Approved corrosion-resistant flashings shall be installed at all of the following locations:

1. At top of all exterior window and door openings in such a manner as to be leakproof, except that self-flashing windows having a continuous lap of not less than 11/8 inches (28 mm) over the sheathing material around the perimeter of the opening, including corners, do not require additional flashing; jamb flashing may also be omitted when specifically approved by the building official.

2. At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry construction with frame or stucco walls, with projecting lips on both sides under stucco copings.

3. Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings and sills.
 
David Henderson said:
Exterior walls shall be weather resistant, wrap does not make it so.
So where is the exterior wall? If a shed was built onto the side of the house is common wall an exterior wall if the rest of the shed is properly protected from rain etc. This is how I see the setup being presented.
steveray said:
Siding....not necessarily...cannot leave the Tyvek exposed,
I thought Tyvek couldn't be exposed to the exterior. I know I have seen older homes with black board exposed in the shed attached to a house-- I realize that codes have change but the articles you quoted seems to allow the install. No?BTW, thanks for looking into this. This is not my job and I would not have liked it but I just got curious about the install.
 
From Tyveks paperwork.....see #3

Special Considerations

1. DuPont™ Tyvek® StuccoWrap™ and DuPont™ Tyvek® DrainWrap™ shall be installed with drainage grooves vertical, going

up and down.

2. To help optimize the installed R-Value benefits of DuPont™ Tyvek® ThermaWrap™ it should be installed with shiny,

metallic side facing towards a clear ¾ inch minimum airspace. Without an airspace, DuPont™ Tyvek® ThermaWrap™ will

still act as a water-resistive barrier.

3. DuPont requires that DuPont™ Tyvek® HomeWrap®, DuPont™ Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, DuPont™ Tyvek® DrainWrap™ and

DuPont™ Tyvek® ThermaWrap™ be covered within 4 months (120 days) of its installation. DuPont™ Tyvek®

CommercialWrap® must be covered within 9 months (270 days) of its installation.
 
There are lots of approved siding materials and Tyvek ain't one of them. Stone siding would be acceptable as an applied veneer. This is addressed in the IRC.
 
So long as the house wrap is not exposed to UV light it will be okay. Should they not properly flash over the enclosure like they done with the window water or moisture may leak through and drain over the paper and hopefully past the gap behind the boxes if installed to the manufacturer instructions for outdoor exposure.

Another reason for the wrap it also functions as an air barrier.



I know the picture is from another forum thus not your install; curious if it will be a full height door or a panel when removed that will comply with the minimum clear working space?

Francis
 
GBrackins said:
Dennis,so in the photo the wall that the boxes are installed on is in between the dwelling and the shed?
There is no shed. I used the term shed since there will be a door around this enclosure so it would be similar to a shed install except that this door, as I understand it, would be close to the panels.Francis, I also assume the door would be a full height giving the clearances necessary. My thoughts were the same as yours with the tyvek. If it is not exposed to the elements what is the issue. I understand that the product info doesn't state that but I suspect that is what was meant by covering it
 
"I understand that the product info doesn't state that but I suspect that is what was meant by covering it"

I believe so also.....It is not an ignition barrier thing like foam or kraft paper...it is protection from the environment...IMO
 
It shouldn't be harder to cut the stone around the panels than to cut vinyl around the panels. I'd hate to try to open a stone-faced door, and hate it even more to get my fingers caught when it closed!

View attachment 579

View attachment 579

/monthly_2012_05/J-Channel2.jpg.633ab2d48e739759ae51584bda7476fa.jpg
 
Paul Sweet said:
It shouldn't be harder to cut the stone around the panels than to cut vinyl around the panels. I'd hate to try to open a stone-faced door, and hate it even more to get my fingers caught when it closed!
Unfortunately I think this is the front of the house and the poco wouldn't allow the install anywhere else. I think they want to hide it.
 
What is that saying again.....Brick doors are hard to open...or something like that......

Paul Sweet said:
It shouldn't be harder to cut the stone around the panels than to cut vinyl around the panels. I'd hate to try to open a stone-faced door, and hate it even more to get my fingers caught when it closed!
 
Siding....not necessarily...cannot leave the Tyvek exposed, but I would have to look at their manual to see if they call out suitable coverings....then it just comes down to details on weeps and drainage planes and such.....

R703.1 General.

Exterior walls shall provide the building with a weather-resistant exterior wall envelope. The exterior wall envelope shall include flashing as described in Section R703.8. The exterior wall envelope shall be designed and constructed in such a manner as to prevent the accumulation of water within the wall assembly by providing a water-resistive barrier behind the exterior veneer as required by Section R703.2.

R703.8 Flashing.

Approved corrosion-resistive flashing shall be provided in the exterior wall envelope in such a manner as to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the building structural framing components. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish and shall be installed to prevent water from reentering the exterior wall envelope. Approved corrosion-resistant flashings shall be installed at all of the following locations:

1. At top of all exterior window and door openings in such a manner as to be leakproof, except that self-flashing windows having a continuous lap of not less than 11/8 inches (28 mm) over the sheathing material around the perimeter of the opening, including corners, do not require additional flashing; jamb flashing may also be omitted when specifically approved by the building official.

2. At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry construction with frame or stucco walls and siding installations bloomington, with projecting lips on both sides under stucco copings.

3. Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings and sills.
I install it from time to time and I see nothing wrong with properly installed vinyl, and, in fact, find it quite attractive. If you stand 50 feet from a well sided house, I would challenge nearly anyone (with the exception of perhaps a qualified installer with good eyes)to visually tell the difference.
 
From fifty feet away vinyl siding doesn’t look all that awful. Forty-nine feet … that’s another story.
 
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