Is there a code governing roof rake length/overhang?

[keepingbusy]

I'm fixing a 1970's modular home for myself, it needs to be re-roofed, and the side of the roof (rake?) overhangs the roof of the attached garage, not leaving enough space for someone can get a roofing nailer in there. I suspect that when it was built, the techniques and materials used for roofing were a little different. Interestingly enough, one of the things left by the original owners was a large painting, more like a colored print of an aerial photo of the house when it was built, and in it one roof simply overhangs the other, and it looks great. Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of it.

At some point, someone "boxed in" the overhang, I suspect to facilitate re-roofing. The boxes at both ends of this modification show wood rot, and at least the front served as starling's nest, and since I don't see proper flashing between the outer aluminum covering (flashing) going under the current shingles, I suspect that water travels down along the wall between the house and the garage causing problems. Note, on the original plat that I was able to find, it shows only the house and not the garage, but the garage looks to be pretty old too, and ties into the house perfectly as if it were built by the original builder.

Since I'm a practical person, and since I plan on tearing off this "box" along the space below the topmost roof to remove the shingles and inspect the framing, etc., I was thinking of simply shortening the overhang enough to where the shingles over the garage could easily be serviced, replaced, etc. from hereon, perhaps 2"-3".

With all that said, is there a building code that governs how much a rake (I believe that's the term for the top overhang) protrudes or overhangs the side of the house? if so, can someone please tell me where I can find it?

Thanks in advance for any help and I hope everyone is having a safe week!

BTW., the gutters and downspouts have been temporarily fixed, leveling, caulking, and hangers, and the fascia will be replaced with PVC or whatever it is the synthetic stuff is called when the roof is done.

 

[MtnArch]

You could cut back the overhanging rake to the wall and simply install the fascia at that surface. This is called a "flush fascia".

 

[keepingbusy]

You could cut back the overhanging rake to the wall and simply install the fascia at that surface. This is called a "flush fascia".

Thanks for the quick reply! That's great news! I'd seen that on townhouses but don't recall seeing them in a situation such as mine; but now that I bought something with it I'll probably notice them a lot more. Are there any pros to leaving a short overhang that would still allow a nailer access the inner corner vs. cutting it flush?

Thanks again!

 

[ICE]

Are there any pros to leaving a short overhang

Aesthetics.

 

[keepingbusy]

Aesthetics.

I agree! The original looks way better but a flush would/will look better than the current boxed in style. Assuming they were using asphalt shingles back in '75, can you take a guess as to how they secured the shingles to the sheathing? Do you think they could be secured properly today, even if manually?

Thanks for the reply and have a good evening!

 

[ICE]

Do you think they could be secured properly today, even if manually?

It was done once. I haven’t held a palm nailer in a long time but if it will take a roofing nail, a palm nailer with the pressure turned down might work. Pull the sheathing from the overhang. Turn a hammer sideways. Find a way.

 

[north star]

~ ~ ~ >

keepingbusy,

Regarding whether to leave a small amount of overhang or to cut it
flush, I come at it from a maintenance viewpoint........Nailing, painting,
repairing, etc. will be a lot easier with it cut flush........Palm Nailers,
and accessing that space for painting \ repairing soffit boards will,
IMO, ...be a lot easier with it flush.

I hope that you will be removing all of that guttering.......Yet another
source of maintenance. Uuuuuugggghhhh !

< ~ ~ ~

 

[mark handler]

What they did by boxing it in is to foster an area for dry rot, mold and mildew.
It does not have proper ventilation, with the end open, it invites guests to move in.

bad move. cut the eave off or cut it back and open it back up.

 

[Saugie53]

As far as your question goes there are no code requirements for a minimum rake overhang (other than a requirement for a drip edge for the roof shingles). It is 100% about aesthetics, most people nowadays like the look of boxed in eaves and rakes. On older houses they never used to do that, they would end the roof flush at the gable ends and usually install a frieze board (usually just a small 1x2 or similar) over top of the fascia directly under the roof shingle line so that the roof shingles will go past the gable ends 2" or so to create a drip edge away from the rake. As far as the code is concerned you can do that if you want, the only requirements it has (and even jurisdictions which add their own amendments) are a maximum amount the rakes and eaves can overhang which are usually intended as framing requirements for higher wind zones.

 

[keepingbusy]

Thank you all for the various replies and suggestions and the clarification that there's no code for a minimum rake overhang!

I like an overhang, especially a long one, for aesthetic reasons and because I believe it can provide protection from the elements, but I like to simplify my life as much as possible. I will remove the box, cut the rake flush, install a drip edge, and adjust the gutter length to correspond with the new rake length. It it were higher and an average person could easily maintain it properly, I would leave it and simply remove the box. The box wasn't completely open at the front. There was a gap on a corner of the aluminum front panel from a small nail having fallen off and there was a good-sized straw nest with starlings in there when I bought the house. Inside the front box, there is another aluminum panel connecting the eave of the higher roof with the top of the lower one (on top of the shingle, not the sheathing). I suspect I will find signs of water damage and rotten wood when I tear off the box and shingles for replacement of the roof, but it will be done properly.

I found it surprising that the extra work was taken to build such a roof on a simple house a good ways from a big city. In the end, after I'm done, it won't look as good as the long overhanging rake of the original design, but it will look better than it's current form, and will be a lot easier to inspect and maintain. I purposely bought a house that wasn't tall to be able to easily maintain it.

Thanks again and a safe weekend for all!

 

[north star]

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[chief-inspector]

As far as your question goes there are no code requirements for a minimum rake overhang (other than a requirement for a drip edge for the roof shingles). It is 100% about aesthetics, most people nowadays like the look of boxed in eaves and rakes. On older houses they never used to do that, they would end the roof flush at the gable ends and usually install a frieze board (usually just a small 1x2 or similar) over top of the fascia directly under the roof shingle line so that the roof shingles will go past the gable ends 2" or so to create a drip edge away from the rake. As far as the code is concerned you can do that if you want, the only requirements it has (and even jurisdictions which add their own amendments) are a maximum amount the rakes and eaves can overhang which are usually intended as framing requirements for higher wind zones.

The sstd now the ICC 600 limits it to 12 in.