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Load Bearing...What's That?

FredK said:
There's a fix for that. Don't remember if it was Skyhook #6 or 7?
It is difficult to install a skyhook after the subfloor is installed.

I'd recommend anti-gravity paint.
 
That truss looks like it was designed to hang not bear on a wall (top mounted). My picture is small but that is what it looks like to me. Fire away.
 
Top chord bearing truss would have a top chord that extends further (longer) than the bottom chord, no?
 
Went back, looked at the plans, it does show that 1 1/2 inches is supposed to sit on the wall. It is a top chord bearing truss. The plate was installed in the field to make up for the amount that wasn't bearing.
 
The truss designer software can allow a smaller bearing if the truss designer makes the adjustments, and the computer software engineering passes with no red flags popping up while doing the design. I always tried getting a min 3.5" bearing when designing floor trusses. Adding additional cords and webb spacing helps with the spans. Look for plan notes for additional support and the engineers seal of approval preferably from a third party.
 
Mule said:
Went back, looked at the plans, it does show that 1 1/2 inches is supposed to sit on the wall. It is a top chord bearing truss. The plate was installed in the field to make up for the amount that wasn't bearing.
So are you saying the floor truss co designed the fix? If it's stamped by their engineer I'm a happy camper.

Did forget about the anti-gravity paint though.
 
If I look at the trusses, it looks like the top plate of the right truss bears on the end of the left truss. If that is the design, I guess everything is ok. (I think it is a poor design, but the software mush show it is code compliant.)
 
FredK said:
So are you saying the floor truss co designed the fix? If it's stamped by their engineer I'm a happy camper.
Yes, the floor truss company submitted the fix.
 
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