My house, need advice.

[chris kennedy]

I had a GC here today to have some questionable fascia board replaced. He pulled down one 16' board and some soffit. Fascia is 2×6 and soffit material is ¼" plywood. He found that the ends of most of my trusses were either rotten or had inactive termite damage, therefore nothing to attach new fascia to without scabbing. I'm undertaking the project to renew my HO ins. He will patch this up to satisfy my ins co, but doesn't want to proceed further until I replace my roof. (note rotten T&G) He also mentioned that there should be another board between the trusses and fascia.

So I would like advice on what to expect when the inspector sees the truss situation? Also, in the second pic you see the roof vent, just vinyl screen attached with some kind of trim molding. What product would to recommend this gets replaced with.

Thanks for your time,

This is giving me a wicked walletache.

 

[ewenme]

My first call would be to a truss engineer to evaluate the whole truss and ask him if there is a way to save the good parts and shore/replace the decayed parts. I've seen some fixes with plywood and new pieces parts, but I don't know the true extent of the damage. How much sweat-equity can you come up with to protect the wallet?

 

[chris kennedy]

My first call would be to a truss engineer to evaluate the whole truss and ask him if there is a way to save the good parts and shore/replace the decayed parts. I've seen some fixes with plywood and new pieces parts, but I don't know the true extent of the damage.

Thats the main question I have right there, do I need to get an engineer involved. Since the answer is apparently yes, am I correct in assuming that with the 2 attic accesses I have and taking down a few soffit boards that a thorough inspecting could be completed before stripping the roof?

How much sweat-equity can you come up with to protect the wallet?

Plenty, the GC is my buddy, I have 2 roofing contractors that owe me favors and will pull the permit, let us repair and sheet, roofing contractor will dry-in then we will shingle. Also have a few buds that will be happy to work the weekend for free. ( Not really free, I throw BBQ/pool party at the end of each day. Girls get together and go shopping all day then meet here for dinner, now that I think about that it would be cheaper to hire laborers. )

 

[mtlogcabin]

He also mentioned that there should be another board between the trusses and fascia.

When I lived in Ft Lauderdale most of the re-roofs had this exact problem. Scab new tails on, install new fascia boards (2X) and then add a 2 x 2 board on to the facia. This kept the drip edge off the facia further. Not sure what the GC is refering to. A couple of houses where so bad we just cut the tails back where the soffit had to be removed and rebuilt. Course all of this was done over the weekend with no permits or inspections (1970's) BTW they where hot mopped gravel no shingle roofs back then

 

[SCBO1]

Some kind of trim moulding? So thats what clover leaf screen moulding was used for, on soffit vents. Second pick sez roof vents?

pc1

 

[ICE]

We used to paint any exposed framing behind screen at soffit, eave and foundation vents with flat black paint. The wood disappears.

 

[DRP]

A subfascia is typically nailed to the tailsand the fascia is applied to that. It gives edge support along the fascia to soffit to support the soffit. Look at your second shot, the wowie along that line between the blank cover and the ply seam would not be there if a subfascia was installed.

That screen probably does a better job than the stamped aluminum strip vents at delivering air and keeping the critters out.

If the damge is restricted to the tail then I'd forgo the engineer, if it has in any way affected the heel joint of the truss fork over the big bucks. Consider borate treated wood.