• Welcome to the new and improved Building Code Forum. We appreciate you being here and hope that you are getting the information that you need concerning all codes of the building trades. This is a free forum to the public due to the generosity of the Sawhorses, Corporate Supporters and Supporters who have upgraded their accounts. If you would like to have improved access to the forum please upgrade to Sawhorse by first logging in then clicking here: Upgrades

Nailplates

steveray

steveray

SAWHORSE
Joined
Nov 25, 2009
Messages
11,873
Location
West of the river CT
Medical office renovation, new plumbing, existing wall, drywall removed on only one side.....New pipe is within 1.5" of both sides. Who makes them nail plate both sides?
 
Not me.

In my opinion, the plates are mostly there to keep the drywaller's screws out of the pipe. Drywall is done already...no plate needed
 
I feel the same, ripping off finished drywall to install new nail plates is foolish.

...and speaking of nail plates, how many are seeing and/or enforcing the extended plates per 2009 P2603.2.1?
 
I agree with mjesse, would not require the removal of existing finishes, but would require on the new work.

And, no, we amended the extended plates out, retained the former requirements.
 
New pipe is within 1.5" of both sides. Who makes them nail plate both sides?
Click to expand...
You may have a bigger problem then nail plates depending on the size of the studs

Bored holes.

A hole not greater in diameter than 40 percent of the stud width is permitted to be bored in any wood stud. Bored holes not greater than 60 percent of the width of the stud are permitted in nonbearing partitions or in any wall where each bored stud is doubled, provided not more than two such successive doubled studs are so bored. In no case shall the edge of the bored hole be nearer than 0.625 inch (15.9 mm) to the edge of the stud. Bored holes shall not be located at the same section of stud as a cut or notch.
 
Steel studs or wood, a stud shoe would work for nail plate and reinforce over bored stud if wood. I would not require the removal of the existing finish
 
= \ = \ =

Milt,

Welcome to The Building Codes Forum ! :cool:

Thank you for becoming a Sawhorse and supporting this Forum!

We appreciate your contribution !





= / = / =
 
"Has anyone thought of putting the nailplate inside the round hole?...I never said anything about drywall removal....."

Well, good luck with that, it would be nice, and give all a sense of comfort, but in reality, can it be done??????
 
Good job Wilt!, great insight, the OP did not clarify wood or steel then he threw us the LP line as a tease. Pretty crafty, this bunch.

I would require one side protection, assuming that they are wood studs.

pc1
 
steveray said:
Has anyone thought of putting the nailplate inside the round hole?...I never said anything about drywall removal.....
Click to expand...
As long as the metal guard inside the hole does not make contact with the copper LP pipe. Do they make such a protector is your invention, subject to ICC ES reports? :0
 
Hammer down flat one end of the teeth's, use the other end of the plate to hammer on, wedging it between the existing wall and stud, glue is optional.

As steveray presumed helps protect from future shelves, racks, cabinets, chair railing, wall mirrors, pictures, wall ornaments, and other assorted alterations.

Welcome Milt aboard and thanks.
 
Francis Vineyard said:
As steveray presumed helps protect from future shelves, racks, cabinets, chair railing, wall mirrors, pictures, wall ornaments, and other assorted alterations..
Click to expand...
Will you also require nail plates at 36" a.f.f. (or 32", or 42", or 48") for chair rail? Better be safe.

How about the entire height of the wall, you never know where Mrs. Homeowner is gonna want to poke holes.

Open side of wall - top plate, bottom plate - done. Unless you own stock in Simpson or Teco, there's no reason to start requiring nail guards for every possibility you can imagine. Especially for a finished wall.
 
mjesse said:
Will you also require nail plates at 36" a.f.f. (or 32", or 42", or 48") for chair rail? Better be safe.How about the entire height of the wall, you never know where Mrs. Homeowner is gonna want to poke holes.

Open side of wall - top plate, bottom plate - done. Unless you own stock in Simpson or Teco, there's no reason to start requiring nail guards for every possibility you can imagine. Especially for a finished wall.
Click to expand...
Perhaps I misunderstood

mjesse said:
Not me.In my opinion, the plates are mostly there to keep the drywaller's screws out of the pipe. Drywall is done already...no plate needed
Click to expand...
 
MJ...You are crabby...plates are required at the studs where someone is likely to install a fastener, not in the bay where they are only slightly less likely to install a fastener.....I've tried to put an EZ anchor through a pipe, it's not that easy.... :)

FV...that is how I have seen it done mostly...or in steel studs peanut screws through the back of flange and they won't stick out of the drywall....
 
Late to the party.

I would normally agree, existing wallboard on one side no problem but in this case I would ask for I.P. Sleeve(s) or a form of protection.

Extended nailplates, I am a nailplate nut. Instead of a handout or pic or explaining what the nailplates are all the time I picked up two, one for 16" stud cavity width - exterior braced walls, other is 6" or 8" width if I recall. I use them for Plumbing and Mechanical contractors/owners as a visual aid. I also carry CSST nailplates and the in wall slinky protector.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top