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ridge beam wall opening

G

gabulldogs

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
8
hello, i'm a newbie with a question regarding the size beam needed to support my ridge beam. picture an easy rectangle house, 14'6" on both sides of the ridge beam, 13.13 rafter angle, 2x6 rafters 24" o.c., shingles,stick built, on slab, in georgia. the lower picture shows where i am going to open the wall (clear span) that supports the ridge beam. the total open span desired is 9' 10 1/2". i plan on using triple studs or quadruple studs on both ends of the beam to transfer the weight to the slab. the ceiling will be cathedral after i remove the section. size and type is the question, lvl, glu-lam, 2x12's?

 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

HI; Have you calculated the weight to the slab to ensure the slab is sized correctly to support this addtional loading? :)
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

the slab was poured thick throughout. they actually poured more than required for a typical slab house (4"). i just poured next to the slab section that the ridge beam rests on and noticed how thick it was.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

Most ridge beams are supported by a post of some sort. I don't see one in your picture. I suspect you lack an understanding of the construction.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

Welcome gabulldogs. You gotta be a U of G fan. Your question about the size of beam is beyond what anyone here can answer for you. Your best bet would to consult an engineer. It depends on a number of factors - span of the trusses, weight of roofing materials, etc. in order to size the beam. Also, dependant upon the load on the beam, the slab, although thicker than a typical slab, may not carry the load.

Have you consulted your local building department?
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

this project is as simple as a tool shed that you want to put a garage door in. basic 2x6 rafters 24"o.c. that are 14'6" long.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

the ridge beam is supported the whole length entirely by 2x4's on end every 16" with 1/2 osb on one side the whole length of the beam.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

Building codes offer some charts but they are not very specific as to individual needs. When people ask me that kind of info I usually refer them to vendors who often have programs to size members according to info you provide. The correct answer for code compliance is to have an engineer make that decision.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

The material supplier should be able to size this for you. If it were my project I would increase the size as identified by the supplier. Example--if they call out a 12" triple LVL I would use a 14" triple LVL. Trusslock screws work well for connecting the LVL's. No engineering required beyond what is required by the LVL manufacturers design manual.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

gabulldogs said:
this project is as simple as a tool shed that you want to put a garage door in. basic 2x6 rafters 24"o.c. that are 14'6" long.
Click to expand...
I'm not so sure it is that simple. I assumed the ridge was supported by the wall from your photo. It's hard to tell, but it almost looks like instead of basic rafters and joists, they are trusses (or portions of cut trusses). Regardless of what they are, they are spaced 24" O.C., and if your wall framing that supports the ridge is 16" O.C., then your joists (or bottom truss chord) are supported by hangers that are nailed into 1/2" OSB; in fact, the one just to the left of the door looks like the nails are actually in the joint between two pieces of OSB. That makes me uncomfortable.

I agree with others however, who say that it would be a simple matter to go to a supplier and have a header sized for this application. You definitely need to get a permit and consult with the building inspection department for some of the other issues, however.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

the osb will be completely removed, and the rafters are going to be cathedral. all that you just pointed out will be removed properly.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

gdog,

that will be quite a long span for a 2x6 rafter after you gut the truss! how will you achieve any energy code compliance and roof ventilation? consult a design professional like gh for example :mrgreen:
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

gabulldogs,

Welcome to the forum! :)

Are we to conclude that no permit was obtained for this project, hence, no plans either?

If not, recommend that you either contact the local BO or a competent LVL, laminated

beam, engineered wood prouct supplier to perform the calculations and means of

attachment of a properly sized eng. product. Also, FWIW, I would be concerned with

the "4 inch thick" foundation that you mentioned. Doesn't sound thick enough to me to

be able to carry your proposed loads.

 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

(I removed a comment because the words in the original post seem to be at odds with the photo. And my comments might be wrong.)
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

come on folks, no one seemed to read the previous posts, theres plenty of concrete to support the opening. also, everyone is scared to just give their 2 cents and think this requires a week of engineering. point blank; either two 2x10 sandwiched or two 2x12's sandwiched with 1/2 plywood inbetween is what i am looking towards. anyone care to post why these would not be sufficient?
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

Isn't there a site where you can ask Bob Vila or that Yankee guy Norm?
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

You're looking for free engineering. It seems you are getting your money's worth. Try google - free wood beam sizing, you'll find many.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

Point blank: You have been given advice that does not incur engineering other than buying the right product as identified in the manufacturers design manual--which your material supplier can easily do. If you are sure that either a 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 will do the job, buy the 2 x 12's and be done. More is better and the $$$ difference between the two is insignificant.
 
Re: ridge beam wall opening

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gabulldogs,

Welcome to the forum! :) Please do not take offense to anyone's suggestions and assistance. We are;

for the most part, conservative and cautious in our application of the codes. We try to be as helpful as we can, while

also being compliant.

I would also agree with incognito's input. If you are asking for us to choose between installing 2 x 10's or 2 x 12's,

I think the majority here would agree with incognito's logic, ...the 2 x 12's would be stronger for only a smaller amount

more $$$. Not trying to be a "smarty pants" or anything, ...another suggestion would be to install 3 - 2 x 12's with

the 1/2" spacer board in between. If you're going to install these 3 - 2 x 12's, I would recommend that you use the

high strength type of glue [ usually sold at the local Home Destruction Company ], and bore though all of the

components with pilot holes, then install 1/2" dia. lag bolts and lock washers. You then, essentially, have an

engineered product. 3 - 1-1/2" [ 2 x 12's ], plus the 1/2" spacer board = 5" wide x 11.24" tall. All glued and

bolted together! I would think that that would amply support your imposed roof & rafter loads. Then just

creatively trim finish them out and 'voila!

I did not see your response to north star' question regarding the building permit and plans. Just wondering...

.
 
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