SFR Garage Conversions

[Alias]

Okay, I don't get a lot of these, most are done under the radar.

Happy homeowner has dropped off a set of plans to convert a 234 sq. ft. attached single car garage into living space, extending the living room. Plans call for removal of a wall, beefing up the trusses, adding a few receptacles and lights, and adding a footing at the front of the garage. HH has given me a materials cost of $3500.00 and no labor cost as he's doing the work.

My question is, how would you figure the permit fee? How much is the HH's labor worth? Just figure the fees on the $3500.00?

ICC building valuation tables clearly state that they are for new construction only. Any help is appreciated.

 

[mark handler]

Sue

Most building departments I deal with do not base the Valuation on the amount put on the permit application

And most value the addition as "new construction"

 

[steveray]

If unclear sometimes we will take material and double it.....not a great system, but fairly reasonable....

 

[mjesse]

Is there a big difference in your fee schedule between a $3500 and say $10k job?

IMHO, it's worth it to collect a smaller amount and help educate the HO, while building a good reputation for the AHJ. $100 here or there shouldn't kill the budget, and hopefully you gain an ally in the public sector.

BTW, when we have our doubts here, we figure all costs at prevailing wage unless the applicant can offer up signed contracts for the work. Not so much an issue at a $5k split, but at $50k, the AHJ is sure to lose out on some revenue.

mj

 

[TJacobs]

We do what steveray does...most tradesmen who do side work do something similar.

 

[Min&Max]

We have gone to strictly a square foot fee with a $25.00 minimum. Very easy for everyone to calculate. For your example we would charge $37.44 for the building permit, $25.00 for the electrical and $25.00 for the HVAC for a total of $87.44.

 

[FredK]

We did the sq ft fee. Gave them credit for the garage since it's existing on the fee. So 234 sq ft for room minus 234 as garage equals balance due.

May not be perfect but sure stops the arguments.

 

[mtlogcabin]

Use the new construction valuation then break it down to

Foundation only 20%

Shell building 60%

Tenant finish/improvement 40%

 

[dbrown]

I agree with mjesse, 3500 dollars would be the amount I would use to calculate the permit. The amount seems reasonable, if the homeowner is doing all the work.

 

[Alias]

We did the sq ft fee. Gave them credit for the garage since it's existing on the fee. So 234 sq ft for room minus 234 as garage equals balance due. May not be perfect but sure stops the arguments.

Fred -

I like this approach, it is logical. Existing - TI = valuation/fees.

 

[Alias]

Use the new construction valuation then break it down toFoundation only 20%

Shell building 60%

Tenant finish/improvement 40%

Thanks, I like this option also. Fairly easy to figure and explain when necessary.

 

[Alias]

A big thanks to all that responded! I really appreciate all of the great ideas and approaches. I am going for the common sense, logical option of calculating the valuation using the equation:

(existing - improvements = valuation.)

Easy to explain to the average DIY'er and at a moderate cost to them.

 

[peach]

good solution; I'd suggest using ICC's value of construction tables unless you have something well established already.

Best

 

[mark handler]

Sue

Check this out FEE ESTIMATOR

http://www.ci.huntington-beach.ca.us/Government/Departments/Building_Safety/permit_center/fee_schedule_information.cfm

 

[jar546]

How do they plan on complying with the energy code on an existing slab?

 

[Alias]

good solution; I'd suggest using ICC's value of construction tables unless you have something well established already.Best

Peach -

Thanks. I have the latest ICC tables and use that for most projects. Reroofs, siding, etc. we have set fees for based on sq./ln. footage.

 

[Alias]

How do they plan on complying with the energy code on an existing slab?

The garage slab is covered with visquine, framed over (think crawlspace) and a minimum of R-30 insulation installed, then finished. I am in an area of CA where the only way to comply with the CA Energy Code is to use prescriptive measures. This is the solution various people use here and I accept it.