Robert Ellenberg
REGISTERED
703.2 describes the Water-resistive barrier as a layer of 15# felt or other approved (which means the local building inspector OKs it). In the past I was using Tyvek or similar but am going to start doing a full layer of 1" foam over the studs to increase the insulation and the thermal bridges created by the studding. I can't find it spelled out in the code, but assume the foam with T&G or properly taped joints should meet the local inspectors approval as a water-resistive barrier as I have seen it done this way (I am covering it in 4x8 Hardi and using thin shims to create a drainage plane between the foam and the Hardi). So far, I think what I have described is good practices--if any of you see any problems, point them out.
However, the code specifically says to follow the window manufacturers installation instructions. Every set I have seen now shows the Tyvek type paper being cut in the X pattern with the top taped up temporarily, etc. and the flashing pan and sides being installed over the turned back edges of Tyvek type paper. I have talked to two manufacturers for directions on installing in a foam sheathed wall without paper. Both have said if relying on the foam sheathing for the barrier, to follow their retrofit instructions. When I look at them, neither is appropriate as they are not fin windows. My thoughts are to install the pan, wrap a wide seal tape from the foam in against the framing on the other 3 sides (as shown in most install diagrams), nail in the window and add a sealing layer of tape over the fin and on to the foam. However, this doesn't give an install that matches up to the manufacturers diagrams, which in turn, makes you non compliant. Any thoughts?
My secondary question is whether or not a fin window creates a top flashing in and of itself as described in 703.8. If you have a vinyl window fin at the top with a sealing tape over it, does adding another flashing on top of it serve any purpose?
However, the code specifically says to follow the window manufacturers installation instructions. Every set I have seen now shows the Tyvek type paper being cut in the X pattern with the top taped up temporarily, etc. and the flashing pan and sides being installed over the turned back edges of Tyvek type paper. I have talked to two manufacturers for directions on installing in a foam sheathed wall without paper. Both have said if relying on the foam sheathing for the barrier, to follow their retrofit instructions. When I look at them, neither is appropriate as they are not fin windows. My thoughts are to install the pan, wrap a wide seal tape from the foam in against the framing on the other 3 sides (as shown in most install diagrams), nail in the window and add a sealing layer of tape over the fin and on to the foam. However, this doesn't give an install that matches up to the manufacturers diagrams, which in turn, makes you non compliant. Any thoughts?
My secondary question is whether or not a fin window creates a top flashing in and of itself as described in 703.8. If you have a vinyl window fin at the top with a sealing tape over it, does adding another flashing on top of it serve any purpose?