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Check my DYI wall framing

S

Shardik

Registered User
Joined
Mar 19, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Tallahassee, FL
My first DYI project that I’ll need to get a permit for. I’m enclosing my porch by replacing a screen with a new 22’ wall. The porch is already enclosed on three sides. My assumption is that the opening is not load bearing since, well, there is just a screen there now.

My wall framing plan is below. I’d appreciate any comments. The 2x6 headers are two on-end with ½ plywood sandwiched between. Everything else is 2x4.

jceYE6J


My additional questions are:
1. Do I need to tie/strap any of the studs to the base plate?
2. How many anchors to the concrete slab below will I need?
3. Can I use construction screws rather than nails?

Thanks!
 
Welcome

We can’t give legal advice

A carpenter/ attorney or is it an attorney/carpenter?
 
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cda said:
Welcome

We can’t give legal advice

A carpenter/ attorney or is it an attorney/carpenter?
Click to expand...

If you're asking about me, I'm an employment lawyer. This is a personal project I'm just looking for help with. I'll get the plan approved before I start work, so I'm not looking for legal advice, just a better understanding. Thanks!
 
Shardik said:
If you're asking about me, I'm an employment lawyer. This is a personal project I'm just looking for help with. I'll get the plan approved before I start work, so I'm not looking for legal advice, just a better understanding. Thanks!
Click to expand...


Just kidding, some of my best friends are lawyers

You have come to the right place for advice.

Good luck on the project, I cannot build a straight wall.
 
Does not mean the existing structure was sized correctly. Seen many things not built to code and still standing. Mostly because they haven't been stressed enough. We don't get much snow here but about every 20 years or so we get a big 2ft plus snow and all the illegal unpermitted porches, carports etc. end up on the ground along with some complaint ones, the code is minimum.

I would want to see the headers at the top to bear the load and can do as you wise under it.
 
None of your questions can be answered without knowing a lot more about this wall, the load from above, what wind zone you are in, the actual dimensions involved, type of sheathing, what type of windows or hurricane shutters, etc. etc etc. It is a nice pictorial of a wall frame. That could be a storefront, house, garage, shed, etc.
 
jar546 said:
None of your questions can be answered without knowing a lot more about this wall, the load from above, what wind zone you are in, the actual dimensions involved, type of sheathing, what type of windows or hurricane shutters, etc. etc etc. It is a nice pictorial of a wall frame. That could be a storefront, house, garage, shed, etc.
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Thanks. I tried to give most of this information in my post. It's not a storefront or a garage, etc. It's a non-load bearing wall that will replace a screen on a porch. it's about 22' long and 9' tall. I'll use 3/4 OSB and house wrap for sheathing. The window sizes are in the drawings. If it matters, the larger will be a 3 lite slider and the smaller will be a 2 lite slider. I'm not sure if they have to be tempered glass or not...maybe someone here can help me answer that question. No shutters. It looks like Tallahassee is a Zone II wind zone.

Thanks
 
You are in fact "changing" a non-load bearing feature to one now exposed to wind loads that may transfer those additional forces to existing walls during storm events.
 
Thank you. I've been referencing the code section for non-load bearing exterior walls. Does this mean I should be referencing something else? Does it change the framing, anchoring, or other aspects of my wall design?

My goal here is have what I need to file for a permit and hopefully get it approved (something I've never done). Is there anything else I'll need to run down / provide to meet that goal?​
 
From the posted picture you have 3 flat 2x4 that support roof loads spanning approximately 6 feet. I do not see how this could meet the prescriptive provisions in the code.

If you are concerned about high winds then how will you resist the uplift?

Hire an engineer and get a contractor to build it.
 
Mark K said:
From the posted picture you have 3 flat 2x4 that support roof loads spanning approximately 6 feet. I do not see how this could meet the prescriptive provisions in the code.
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For residential non-load bearing walls, I read the code as permitting this with the cripple studs on top. If it's actually load bearing (or will become so as someone else suggested) it doesn't look like the 2x4s would work. I'll have to answer that question.

ADAguy said:
Do you have a footing under the edge of your slab to attach your plate too?
Click to expand...

I'm honestly not sure. It's just a concrete slab as far as I can tell. My plan was drill and put in expanding concrete ties/anchors to secure the bottom plate. Is there something in particular I should look for to answer your question?

Mark K said:
Hire an engineer and get a contractor to build it.
Click to expand...

I may. This sounds like a fun project that I'd like to do if I can. If I can't do it right, I'll hire someone who can.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
Lets take this a step further, does your roof have exposed eves, if so does it have hurricane clips?
 
None of what I've seen so far is of any help. It never will be in as much as you don't know what you have and we don't know what you need. There is such a gamut of variables that it takes someone that knows the requirements in your particular area to design the structure. For example, one AHJ lets you infill with little extra work and another AHJ requires a continuous footing.

There might be a deal breaker such as a EERO that currently opens to the patio cover. Be aware that electrical receptacles will be required and those receptacles most likely require arc fault protection. Is an electrical service upgrade required to accomplish that?

I recommend a trip to the building dept. Take a rudimentary (that means that you can create it) site drawing with a floor plan for the proposed work. Be accurate with the dimensions. Ask for any handouts on framing.

There was a time in my career that a site/floor plan was all we needed for a permit. We would provide the applicant with a Type V handout and they built to that. Maybe you'll get lucky.
 
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That time has long since past ICE, he lives in a land in which a typical Type V will blow away in their winds.
 
[RB] SUNROOM. A one-story structure attached to a dwelling
with a glazing area in excess of 40 percent of the gross
area of the structure’s exterior walls and roof.

R301.2.1.1.1 Sunrooms. Sunrooms shall comply
with AAMA/NPEA/NSA 2100. For the purpose of
applying the criteria of AAMA/NPEA/NSA 2100
based on the intended use, sunrooms shall be identified
as one of the following categories by the permit
applicant, design professional or the property owner
or owner’s agent in the construction documents.
Component and cladding pressures shall be used for
the design of elements that do not qualify as main
windforce-resisting systems. Main windforce-resisting
system pressures shall be used for the design of
elements assigned to provide support and stability
for the overall sunroom.

I don't know about the FL codes but if it is like the IRC and if this will make it a sun room as defined it will need to be designed by AAMA/NPEA/NSA 2100-12 which you can get for free on line.
 
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