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Extending non-load bearing, stud wall height

Discussion in 'Residential Structural Codes' started by Don Free, Jun 30, 2020.

  1. Don Free

    Don Free Registered User

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    First time poster - I live in SW FL and am raising my ceiling height from 8' to 9' with LVL spanning each truss; yes, I had a structural engineer design it :). Hopefully, the image I added below works.

    [​IMG]

    My question: What is the proper way to extend an existing, non-load bearing stud wall from 8' to 9' to meet the new ceiling height?

    I've seen a top/bottom plate with 9" studs that were strapped to the existing stud wall - is this common? Or the right way?

    Thanks for your consideration!

    Don
     
  2. Don Free

    Don Free Registered User

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  3. cda

    cda Sawhorse

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    Welcome

    yes to direct post, you have to be a Sawhorse forum supporting person.

    Or like you found out, make it a link and post the link

    Anyway I am not into building walls, so no help

    Give it a few days for great answers
     
  4. cda

    cda Sawhorse

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    Open the vertical wall


    Seems like put a plate at the top

    Remove the top plate

    Piggy back the vertical studs, to the new plate??
     
  5. cda

    cda Sawhorse

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    Something along like this, but this is a full wall


     
  6. cda

    cda Sawhorse

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    Or;;;


     
    ADAguy likes this.
  7. e hilton

    e hilton Bronze Member

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    Im thinking youre going to lose the ceiling sheetrock and at least the sheetrock on one side of the walls so you can access the wiring to stretch the romex the additional foot. I would be tempted to add a new top plate at the new ceiling line, then sister in new styds to reach the top plate. Overlap the studs a couple of feet.
    You could leave the existing top plate in place, add short studs to reach the new higher top plate. That creates a hinge point. And if you don’t replace the sheetrock you will have to deal with a horizontal joint that might be difficult to get flat.
     
  8. Robert

    Robert Registered User

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    When it comes to non-bearing partitions and bottom truss chords, I have usually used a slotted hole simpson clip that allows vertical movement of the partition without affecting the bottom truss chord. Your truss is getting modified so I'm not sure if you will need the clip. Mark K probably would know.
     

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