Exterior wall framing repair

[ad3327]

Hey all,

I'm having some termite damage repaired and am looking for a second opinion about my contractor's work.

This picture is before work. All of the vertical studs you can see in the picture, the studs under the garage header, and the top plates from the window to the corner, were replaced. Bottom plate, ceiling joists, and sheathing stayed in place. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the repair before the drywall went up.

There is a second floor above, although the ceiling is slanted so it looks more like a one story house from outside. Ceiling joists are perpendicular to the garage door, and the window wall is a gable end. Exterior is brick.

My questions:
- Just to the left of the window the contractor cut the double top plate, installed new top plates from the cut to the wall corner, but did not overlap or nail the new top plate to the old at the cut. It's a butt joint so the top plates are not continuous. Is this OK? If not, is a metal strap fastened to the side of the top plates (the drywall side only) sufficient to tie the top plates together? Above the top plate is a double 2x10 joist.
- At the corner, there's a 4 ft piece of OSB sheathing on the window wall and a 2 ft piece on the garage door wall. These were left in place, reattached using two drywall screws at each stud and none at the top plate. Is this OK? Contractor said that the OSB was not carrying any weight so it does not need further attachment. The wall sheathing is all green foamboard except for OSB at corners, so it seems like the OSB would be there for a reason.
- If these are not OK, what's the risk if I leave it "as is"?

Thanks.

 

[bill1952]

Are the roof trusses or rafters also perpendicular to the wall with overhead doors?

 

[ad3327]

No trusses. Rafters are perpendicular to the garage door.

 

[bill1952]

So the wall with cut plate is non load bearing. I'm not concerned at though probably would have scabbed on some sort of splint.

 

[Mark K]

How does this comply with the code.? I suggest that it doesn't

 

[SDS]

Almost certainly a braced corner...possibly a portal frame panel on the overhead door wall. If repaired/replaced wouldn't need to be brought up to code, at least complying with prescriptive wall bracing there. Now the sheathing is no longer properly attached for bracing. Drywall screws are not going to fly.

I'd fail it.

 

[ICE]

Why was the framing replaced?

 

[ad3327]

Half of the studs could have been saved, but I guess it was easier to replace them all. The worst damage was next to the window, next to the garage door, and in the top plate and window header.

 

[ICE]

And what is the reason for replacing the framing? Water damage, termites, mold....what?

 

[ICE]

The sheathing appears to have been wet. That renders it useless. The description that indicates the use of drywall screws tells me that there wasn't a legitimate contractor involved. Butting the top plates without straps at both ends is another indication. Oh but the "contractor" is correct about the OSB not carrying any weight.

 

[ad3327]

That's correct, there was water intrusion by the window, which most likely was the invitation for the termites which moved in and continued eating up the wall.

 

[e hilton]

Looks more like water damage ... a leak … rotted wood. And a hack job of repairing it.

 

[jar546]

Improper repair needs to be professionally corrected by a qualified contractor.

 

[bill1952]

Looks more like water damage ... a leak … rotted wood. And a hack job of repairing it.

The photo is before repair, correct? And the water damaged and termite damaged were replaced?

 

[ad3327]

That's correct, it's before repair. All the damaged framing was replaced but the sheathing was not.

 

[ICE]

Was the exterior wall finish removed to expose the OSB?

 

[ad3327]

The exterior is brick and was not removed.

 

[ICE]

If the framing were replaced, A35s from the top plate to the rim joist and anchor bolts, there could have been sheathing installed on the interior with the requisite straps.

The work that was done accomplished….well not a lot.

 

[Mark K]

The purpose of the sheathing is not to carry any weight. The sheathing resists horizontal forces. The weight is carried by the studs and other framing members.

 

[ad3327]

Thanks everyone. Sounds like I need to open the wall back up and have it done right. The building office here has no interest in "like kind" repairs so there's no permit or inspection.

 

[ad3327]

I'm back with more pictures. I did find a copy of the IRC and have been reading through, so I guess I'm looking for a sanity check on what to stand firm on and what's reasonable in a repair.

1) Should I expect all of the new studs to be touching the top plate? Is any gap acceptable and if so how much? Right now, the window header and about 50% of the studs are gapped so aren't holding weight. Presumably the 2x10s for the floor above are keeping it from sagging.
2) Do the top plates need to overlap in the corner? Is nailing the two walls together via full height studs sufficient instead? Right now, the walls don't actually connect at the corner, except by each wall being attached to the foundation and to the second floor.
3) Does adding OSB on the interior side (and then drywall over the OSB) seem reasonable to make up for the wall bracing? (Per 2018 IRC I am in <115 wind and seismic A.)
4) Should I demand the top plates overlap 2+ feet instead of the butt joint with the metal cover?

I brought all my concerns up to the contractor, who remains confident in the work as is and offered to bring over an engineer to help me trust it.

 

[ICE]

The scope of work is simple. So much so that any electrician could see what's wrong. You keep referring to the person that did this as a "contractor".

Get rid of the imposter and hire a real carpenter.

 

[TheCommish]

Check the Engineers credentials

 

[Paul Sweet]

Any load-bearing stud needs to be shimmed. An air space won't bear any load.