jar546
CBO
I found this to be very informative. What are your thoughts on this?
-
Welcome to The Building Code Forum
Your premier resource for building code knowledge.
This forum remains free to the public thanks to the generous support of our Sawhorse Members and Corporate Sponsors. Their contributions help keep this community thriving and accessible.
Want enhanced access to expert discussions and exclusive features? Learn more about the benefits here.
Ready to upgrade? Log in and upgrade now.
Insulating Basements
- Thread starter jar546
- Start date
TheCommish
SAWHORSE
Makes sense to me, warm move to cold, moist move to dry, if the beer can is cold you get condensation
Last edited:
steveray
SAWHORSE
The code requires the vapor retarder on the warm in winter side which should mitigate it....what it doesn't do is regulate a wet basement....Really....
steveray
SAWHORSE
Mmmmmmm....cold beer....
Mostly a very good video!
Is why most in my location use closed cell foam applied directly to the interior foundation wall.
For my climate location, 1.5 to 2" is all that's needed for normal indoor RH levels.
No condensation and an amazing vapor barrier..
Exterior insulation hardly ever continues above grade, and when it does it needs to be covered.
It IS the best way to do it, BUT there are downfalls.
Forget about the foundation wall when there is an outside basement entrance.
Additionally, I know very little about termites (We seldom have them) or other burrowing insects, but exterior foam I don't believe can stand up to that well.
Lastly, every effort should be made to condition that area, which now has its own concerns...
atmospherically drafted appliances ? Radon ?
If appliances are natural draft, make a boiler room that has vents to the exterior.
Is why most in my location use closed cell foam applied directly to the interior foundation wall.
For my climate location, 1.5 to 2" is all that's needed for normal indoor RH levels.
No condensation and an amazing vapor barrier..
Exterior insulation hardly ever continues above grade, and when it does it needs to be covered.
It IS the best way to do it, BUT there are downfalls.
Forget about the foundation wall when there is an outside basement entrance.
Additionally, I know very little about termites (We seldom have them) or other burrowing insects, but exterior foam I don't believe can stand up to that well.
Lastly, every effort should be made to condition that area, which now has its own concerns...
atmospherically drafted appliances ? Radon ?
If appliances are natural draft, make a boiler room that has vents to the exterior.
thomasclark102
REGISTERED
For basement insulation, make sure to control moisture first. Closed-cell foam or properly installed vapor barriers on the warm side of the wall usually work best to prevent condensation and mold.
beancawhiteside
REGISTERED
When insulating a basement, the key is controlling moisture first. Closed-cell spray foam or rigid foam board works well, and make sure to follow local R-value requirements. Adding a vapor barrier and proper finishing keeps the space comfortable and code-compliant.
bill1952
SAWHORSE
If I wanted to insulate and uninsulated masonry basement wall where there was the possibility of moisture in the back fill - almost everywhere I'd live in US - I'd put a heavy air vapour barrier against the wall (and floor), at least 10 mil, and perhaps set that in mastic of some sort. I'd like to minimize any air pockets or gaps. Then frame inside - gapped from wall - and sheath with something that is very vapour permeable - like t&g pine. And then dense pack the cavity with cellulose. Stop the moisture on the moist side and build the wall so it dries inward.