Is this Basement Wall to Code?

[echeatwood]

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and I have a question to ask about my basement wall. I noticed that many of the electrical boxes are pretty shallow in the wall so when I needed to replace a water spicot to the outside, I decided to tear out the wall to expose the copper pipe. When I pulled back the wall, I found that the previous owner had taken 1x4x4 wood sections and used masonry screws to secure it to the block wall. He then took the drywall and attached it over the top onto the 1x4 pieces. I have a pretty good feeling that is not to code and was never to code. I am a former fireman and an engineer and I have a good idea of how to properly build a wall. Just wanted people's opinions on what to do (if anything). I have pictures but cannot find a place to attache them. Please let me know if that is possible.

 

[echeatwood]

 

[echeatwood]

https://imgur.com/a/CgiPxA9

 

[cda]

Welcome

 

[cda]

For easy posting you have to be a paying sawhorse member

Which you can

Young and done good sounds like!!

FF and now an engineer

 

[cda]

Your question is not in my area.

Only thing I would say is to me it is just

Interior finish

Not a load bearing wall

Not a rated wall or there for other code reasons.

 

[echeatwood]

I'm in Ohio just for reference by the way.

 

[jar546]

A few things. First I assume you are in Ohio based on your profile. Next, who know when the basement was finished, if the finish was under permit with inspections, has the proper egress and is also listed on the tax roles as being finished space. No on to more..........

If this is in Ohio, you definitely don't meet the energy code and if the basement wall exterior is more than 50% above grade, you certainly never will meet the code. I see moisture issues in basements in general and in finished basements, a lot. The electrical boxes are certainly an issue for box fill to wires and to be honest, I hate finished basements due to the problems with egress, height, and most of all moisture that creeps in from the slab and the masonry walls. So no, in today's world that wall is a **** show and not compliant with much of anything.

 

[jar546]

Of note, you opened the wall like a firefighter with a halligan bar, not an engineer or contractor that would have scored the wall with a knife and cut it cleanly to make it easier to replace the drywall. I assume you are going to gut the basement walls, remove the cabinets and start over?

 

[echeatwood]

Thanks for the response. This is a walk out basement with one of the walls facing exterior brick and constructed the same way as the one pictured. I am going to redo the walls correctly though with foam board, plastic sheeting, and framing. I believe this job was not permitted and performed in the early 2000’s. At the time when I was ripping that drywall there was water coming down because when the hose bib was installed it was done incorrectly and was sticking out from the exterior, which allowed it to freeze. Fortunately it had its own shutoff and I had just tried it to see if it worked. It’s a shame people don’t take the time to do things right the first time.

 

[jar546]

On the walkout side, foam board will never meet the energy code as the walls should be framed to the proper depth for the region you live in. The other walls will probably work. I would also recommend metal partition studs for the framing as termites in basement framed walls are more than common and people don't find out until it is too late.

 

[mtlogcabin]

Forget the code and what it says get this book and study it and then follow what will work best for your region and plans for your basement. The code allows the use of "alternative materials and methods" that is exactly what this book is, as an engineer I think you will enjoy the read and understand the building science it is based on..
It is available in paperback

Builder's Guide: Cold Climates ; a Systems Approach to Designing and Building Homes that are Safe, Healthy, Durable, Comfortable, Energy Efficient and Environmentally Responsible [Book]
from AbeBooks

1 product review
Architecture · Hardcover · Non-fiction · 466 page


The North American Cold Climate edition of the Builder's Guide provides the building industry with the latest and best practical information on how to apply building science principles to structures as systems in colder regions.

 

[ADAguy]

Good discussion item.