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Over-cut / bored studs in interior bearing wall, DWV

Keystone said:
Here's what I do not understand, do plumbers in your area get paid by the lineal foot and fitting. The drain height is offset from the 1st Tee, why not stack another Tee immediately atop of the 1st Tee and come off with just an arm then eliminate the additional overhead vent arm. Not trying to add confusion to the situation buttttttttt.
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It's my understanding the venting is proper.
I could be mistaken, but I thought the licensed plumber that did the rebuild of the DWV said you couldn't stack sanitary tees, but I can't find that in the 2012 UPC. I believe that's why they used a combination wye, but I might not be understanding the code correctly. A tee there would've allowed me to fit a stud shoe at that single stud penetration, but ultimately with the leftover bored hole from the first plumbing attempt, that stud still needs either multiple shoes or another solution.
The drainage section of the added sink was actually rebuilt a 3rd time due to a lack of, or negative pitch in that section of the horizontal drainage line. That was a quick fix job and why it resulted in the trap arm being placed quite a bit higher than the other. My sinks are shallow so they won't conflict.

Here's a photo of the first attempt. As I understand it, it was not code because of improper venting, the use of 1-1/2" tubing vs 2" for the drainage line, and the use of "stacking" the tees...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bf43abm3wdep5g/IMG_1196.jpg?dl=0
 
cda said:
think rebuilding and re-plumbing where necessary might be my best option.

Not a plumber or carpenter

Can you cut just the black pipe.

Ad one or two 2x4 on one side or both

Replumb black pipe
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Yes and no. Can definitely replace the ABS sections if needed. But simply putting in 2x4's that will also be penetrated wouldn't really solve anything. Studs notched/bored to that extent, even doubled. still require shoes according to IRC unless an actually engineered solution.
I'm assuming without an engineer or similar giving the okay, sistering more studs doesn't necessarily fix the issue.

Technically, and to meet code as it's worded, I should be able to add notched studs to the existing penetrated ones, and then put heavy duty (meaning compression and tension load rated) stud shoes over the penetrations, but as far as I understand the plumbing requirements, I can't change the combination wye fitting so that I could fit a shoe over that stud (hub/collar of fitting conflicts with shoe opening), and the doubled studs need a new stud on each side to give me enough material to screw into, and no one makes a (4) 2x stud shoe.

I should be able to add a single or even doubled notched stud/s to the right of the single penetrated one and add the shoes fairly easily, and in a way that makes the single penetrated stud necessary (16 O.C. to a new sistered stud to the far left stud cut for electrical, and unattached to the single penetrated stud), but the doubled studs are where I'm sc###ed.
 
The drain and vent as installed is code compliant, it is a more thorough method and likely required by your jurisdiction. Frankly, it's been some time since I've seen work like this, anytime I have its from plumbers who are not from this area.
 
So are you guesstimating on your own or speaking with the local inspector about your proposed repair? A call to them may take the guesstimating out of the equation...

We may be able to make judgement calls in this scenario however there are factors at play, how far from a corner or interior braced wall, window, total length of wall area, why the double stud is there, wind zone, seismic zone, etc.... Code complaint repair may be better left to your local official.
 
Keystone said:
So are you guesstimating on your own or speaking with the local inspector about your proposed repair? A call to them may take the guesstimating out of the equation...

We may be able to make judgement calls in this scenario however there are factors at play, how far from a corner or interior braced wall, window, total length of wall area, why the double stud is there, wind zone, seismic zone, etc.... Code complaint repair may be better left to your local official.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies.
Long story, but this part has not been discussed with the building dept. A few licensed either general or framing contractors have looked at it but I still had questions.
A lot of those parameters are detailed elsewhere in the thread, but of course I agree factoring the complete context of the structure is the best practice ideally. So I'm just trying to see how I can get it as close to the original structure as possible.
 
I’ve not seen a guest post before now. Did I just not notice or is this something new? There is no content and the spam button is not there.
 
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