• Welcome to the new and improved Building Code Forum. We appreciate you being here and hope that you are getting the information that you need concerning all codes of the building trades. This is a free forum to the public due to the generosity of the Sawhorses, Corporate Supporters and Supporters who have upgraded their accounts. If you would like to have improved access to the forum please upgrade to Sawhorse by first logging in then clicking here: Upgrades

Skylight framing- cutting one rafter

MACV

Registered User
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
30
Location
Massachusetts
"16' from floor to ridge board" is not the dimension of the rafter span. If this is a simple gable roof, what is the total width of the house?
 

MACV

Registered User
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
30
Location
Massachusetts
If the 2x6 rafters slope 12 in 12 and are 16-0 long measured along the rafters, then the horizontal span is about 11-2 and the width of the house would be about 22-4.
 

Aunty Lulu

Registered User
Joined
Oct 12, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Denver, CO 80209, US
Simpson does make screws that can be used with their connectors:

Do NOT use cabinet screws, drywall screws, decking screws, or other stock screws from big-box stores, because many of them are brittle and will snap with repeated bending under cyclical load.
Thank you- I found the strong tie site and found the right screws: Strong-Drive® SD CONNECTOR Screw SD 9 1.5"
Deck screws are exactly what the contractor used on the building that lost it's roof.
 

Aunty Lulu

Registered User
Joined
Oct 12, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Denver, CO 80209, US
So, here is the framing that I did. I'm waiting for the roofers to show up and put the actual skylights in.
So, one thing I learned after fighting to fit the first rafter in at full size- IT WON'T FIT FROM THE INSIDE!! I thought maybe I would be able to turn it sideways or nip the point of the top- but no! So, after checking with a building inspector, I cut 1-1/2" off at the bottom of the rafter (When in place, it actually ended up being more like 2.5" and it didn't matter which end I cut). This gave it the wiggle room I needed. I then put in a block at the bottom for it to rest on.

When putting the rafter in I tied a rope to the top of the rafter and put it through a small hole next to the existing rafter to pull it up (and hold it there while I screwed it into place). It worked pretty easily after I cut the bit off the bottom.

It would have gone into place full length if I had put it in from the outside but I would have had to cut all the deck boards out (they are re-decking the roof).

An interesting find when I exposed the rafters was, when they built the house, they used a 2x4 as the bottom plate. So you have a 2x6 cut at a 45 degree angle (which makes a resting edge of nearly 8.5") resting on 3.5". Strange! When I redo the flooring, I may put a block under the inside edge of the rafters because I see some cracking on some of the rafters where they (don't) rest on the 2x4". The photo is of my neighbor's house which actually has the 2x4 at the edge of the rafter point (even worse than mine which was roughly in the middle of the 2x6)

Also, in one pic, you can see an electric line running out from the between the roof deck boards- NOT MY HANDY WORK!. And its coming out! Also those J-boxes were mudded over- another no-no.

Thanks for all of your input.
And the moral of the story is if a 60 year "old" lady can do this alone- so could you! :oops:
Still awaiting the inspection....



 

cda

Sawhorse 123
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
19,058
Location
Basement
So, here is the framing that I did. I'm waiting for the roofers to show up and put the actual skylights in.
So, one thing I learned after fighting to fit the first rafter in at full size- IT WON'T FIT FROM THE INSIDE!! I thought maybe I would be able to turn it sideways or nip the point of the top- but no! So, after checking with a building inspector, I cut 1-1/2" off at the bottom of the rafter (When in place, it actually ended up being more like 2.5" and it didn't matter which end I cut). This gave it the wiggle room I needed. I then put in a block at the bottom for it to rest on.

When putting the rafter in I tied a rope to the top of the rafter and put it through a small hole next to the existing rafter to pull it up (and hold it there while I screwed it into place). It worked pretty easily after I cut the bit off the bottom.

It would have gone into place full length if I had put it in from the outside but I would have had to cut all the deck boards out (they are re-decking the roof).

An interesting find when I exposed the rafters was, when they built the house, they used a 2x4 as the bottom plate. So you have a 2x6 cut at a 45 degree angle (which makes a resting edge of nearly 8.5") resting on 3.5". Strange! When I redo the flooring, I may put a block under the inside edge of the rafters because I see some cracking on some of the rafters where they (don't) rest on the 2x4". The photo is of my neighbor's house which actually has the 2x4 at the edge of the rafter point (even worse than mine which was roughly in the middle of the 2x6)

Also, in one pic, you can see an electric line running out from the between the roof deck boards- NOT MY HANDY WORK!. And its coming out! Also those J-boxes were mudded over- another no-no.

Thanks for all of your input.
And the moral of the story is if a 60 year "old" lady can do this alone- so could you! :oops:
Still awaiting the inspection....




You go!!!!

Yep if they can cover it, people may not see it, till they need to open a wall.

I have been re dry walking my garage ceiling, never done dry wall before

Had to add some wood, to screw the dry wall to,
Added a pull down stair , more added brace

Yep learn as I go and YouTube
 

Aunty Lulu

Registered User
Joined
Oct 12, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Denver, CO 80209, US
Feels good to know you did it yourself.
It feels like $1,000-$2,000- good! That is probably what I would have paid someone else to do it- or more. What I have found from scrabbling around on a ranch for 40+ years is there is always a way to get things done yourself. This job had me a bit intimidated but was I was very satisfied when it was finished.
 

Aunty Lulu

Registered User
Joined
Oct 12, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Denver, CO 80209, US
You go!!!!

Yep if they can cover it, people may not see it, till they need to open a wall.

I have been re dry walking my garage ceiling, never done dry wall before

Had to add some wood, to screw the dry wall to,
Added a pull down stair , more added brace

Yep learn as I go and YouTube
Sounds good! I need to put an attic stair in at work.
I LOVE YouTube!! Thanks to all of those people who take the time to make the videos!!!!
 

ADAguy

Sawhorse
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Messages
5,262
Location
California
Thanks- The rafters are indeed 16' from floor to ridge board (what I can measure with the room finished). The house is 115 years old so it must be working- back then they did what they did. The roof is 12:12 so maybe that helps. I did see on one place in the building code that one species is ok for that span but not the spacing. So, I will double the rafters and put in some beefy headers above and below the skylight to be safe. Thanks for your input.
100 year old Rafters are most likely net as to dimension (old growth) and therefore can span a bit longer.
 
Top