Thank you- I found the strong tie site and found the right screws: Strong-Drive® SD CONNECTOR Screw SD 9 1.5"Simpson does make screws that can be used with their connectors:
Do NOT use cabinet screws, drywall screws, decking screws, or other stock screws from big-box stores, because many of them are brittle and will snap with repeated bending under cyclical load.
So, here is the framing that I did. I'm waiting for the roofers to show up and put the actual skylights in.
So, one thing I learned after fighting to fit the first rafter in at full size- IT WON'T FIT FROM THE INSIDE!! I thought maybe I would be able to turn it sideways or nip the point of the top- but no! So, after checking with a building inspector, I cut 1-1/2" off at the bottom of the rafter (When in place, it actually ended up being more like 2.5" and it didn't matter which end I cut). This gave it the wiggle room I needed. I then put in a block at the bottom for it to rest on.
When putting the rafter in I tied a rope to the top of the rafter and put it through a small hole next to the existing rafter to pull it up (and hold it there while I screwed it into place). It worked pretty easily after I cut the bit off the bottom.
It would have gone into place full length if I had put it in from the outside but I would have had to cut all the deck boards out (they are re-decking the roof).
An interesting find when I exposed the rafters was, when they built the house, they used a 2x4 as the bottom plate. So you have a 2x6 cut at a 45 degree angle (which makes a resting edge of nearly 8.5") resting on 3.5". Strange! When I redo the flooring, I may put a block under the inside edge of the rafters because I see some cracking on some of the rafters where they (don't) rest on the 2x4". The photo is of my neighbor's house which actually has the 2x4 at the edge of the rafter point (even worse than mine which was roughly in the middle of the 2x6)
Also, in one pic, you can see an electric line running out from the between the roof deck boards- NOT MY HANDY WORK!. And its coming out! Also those J-boxes were mudded over- another no-no.
Thanks for all of your input.
And the moral of the story is if a 60 year "old" lady can do this alone- so could you!
Still awaiting the inspection....
It feels like $1,000-$2,000- good! That is probably what I would have paid someone else to do it- or more. What I have found from scrabbling around on a ranch for 40+ years is there is always a way to get things done yourself. This job had me a bit intimidated but was I was very satisfied when it was finished.Feels good to know you did it yourself.
Sounds good! I need to put an attic stair in at work.You go!!!!
Yep if they can cover it, people may not see it, till they need to open a wall.
I have been re dry walking my garage ceiling, never done dry wall before
Had to add some wood, to screw the dry wall to,
Added a pull down stair , more added brace
Yep learn as I go and YouTube
100 year old Rafters are most likely net as to dimension (old growth) and therefore can span a bit longer.Thanks- The rafters are indeed 16' from floor to ridge board (what I can measure with the room finished). The house is 115 years old so it must be working- back then they did what they did. The roof is 12:12 so maybe that helps. I did see on one place in the building code that one species is ok for that span but not the spacing. So, I will double the rafters and put in some beefy headers above and below the skylight to be safe. Thanks for your input.