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Why does code limit rafter birdsmouth cut max depth?

codeman11234

Registered User
Joined
May 27, 2023
Messages
2
Location
Merica
Say I have a 2x6 wall and 2 x 8 rafters at a 12/12 pitch and I intend the rafter tail to extend 1ft. To me it would make sense to have a greater surface area with the rafter and wall top plate and therefore a deeper birdsmouth cut so the rafter surface is entirely on the wall plate. However, code says 1/4th depth is the limit for birdsmouth, however I dont understand why. Some people mention it creates a "weak point" or how the rafters may "split" up the board and having the strnegth of 2 x 4 instead of a 2 x 8, however I do not understand how this would happen.

Can someone shed some light on why this code is necessary?
 
Some people mention it creates a "weak point" or how the rafters may "split" up the board and having the strnegth of 2 x 4 instead of a 2 x 8, however I do not understand how this would happen.
Re-entrant splits in lumber can also occur specifically after cutting a rafter bird's mouth. A rafter bird's mouth is a notch or cut made on the underside of a rafter to fit securely onto a wall or support structure.

When cutting a bird's mouth, the notch removes a portion of the wood at the end of the rafter, leaving a triangular-shaped cutout. This cutout weakens the structural integrity of the wood in that area, making it more susceptible to splitting.

Re-entrant splits in this context refer to the splits that originate from the cut end of the rafter and extend inward along the grain. These splits typically follow the triangular shape of the bird's mouth cut and can occur due to a combination of factors.

One of the primary factors contributing to re-entrant splits after cutting a rafter bird's mouth is the release of internal stresses within the wood. Wood naturally contains moisture and stress within its fibers. When a bird's mouth is cut, the removal of wood can cause the release of these internal stresses, leading to the wood splitting along the grain.

The likelihood of re-entrant splits can also be influenced by the quality and characteristics of the lumber itself. Wood species that are more prone to splitting, such as those with high density or a tendency to shrink or expand significantly, are more susceptible. Additionally, wood that is not properly dried or seasoned may have higher moisture content, increasing the risk of splitting.

To minimize the occurrence of re-entrant splits after cutting a rafter bird's mouth, it is important to use appropriate techniques and considerations. Here are some recommendations:

  1. Use properly seasoned and dried lumber: Ensure that the wood used for rafters has been properly dried to an appropriate moisture content level. This can help reduce the risk of splitting.
  2. Make precise and clean cuts: Use sharp and appropriate tools to make clean and accurate cuts. This can minimize the amount of stress and damage to the wood fibers, reducing the likelihood of splits.
  3. Provide additional support: Reinforcing the area around the bird's mouth with additional fasteners, such as nails or screws, can help distribute the load and reduce stress concentration, thereby decreasing the chances of splitting.
  4. Apply protective coatings: Applying appropriate wood preservatives or sealants to the cut ends of the rafter can help reduce moisture absorption and minimize the risk of splitting.
  5. Drill a hole at the inside corner and cut into the hole.
#5 is me. Isn't this just a hoot! Academia as we know it is on it's way out. You can all be Vegas Paul....well except for the murdering part....that's still a hands on task.
 
I have always wondered why folks birdsmouth rather than running a third board on the top-plate cut to the angle of the roof. Did that for my porch, 18 degree angle for a 4:12 rafter pitch. Way the hell easier, and no damage to the rafters.
 
I have always wondered why folks birdsmouth rather than running a third board on the top-plate cut to the angle of the roof. Did that for my porch, 18 degree angle for a 4:12 rafter pitch. Way the hell easier, and no damage to the rafters.
Birds mouth is like a joinery and "locks" it in place with a greater surface area between the top plate and the rafter.

Regarding the other replies, im not sure. Im still not fully understanding the reasoning. The rule appears to just make sure the tail is strong enough and it doesnt create a split up the rafter where the seat / heel cut join. It still feels weird with such a small seat cut on the top plate to comply with the 1/4 rule. Ill probably shoot more for 1/3 depth, there is no code / permits / inspection where im building thankfully, im just trying to understand the reasoning behind this rule.
 
I have always wondered why folks birdsmouth rather than running a third board on the top-plate cut to the angle of the roof. Did that for my porch, 18 degree angle for a 4:12 rafter pitch. Way the hell easier, and no damage to the rafters.
That's a big piece with 12 in 12 pitch and 2x6 walls. Hell of table saw.
 
The concern has to do with the increased likelihood of splits which could lead to failure of the roof joists. The available literature does not support the belief that larger. notches can be accommodated. Consider a detail that does not require the use of larger notches.
 
The beveled piece would seem to make the simple setting of rafter ties difficult, requiring an odd sort of birds mouth.

I also would think the rafter tie crossing the rafter would help counteract splitting.

I wonder if it's still a bird's mouth if the end of rafter is cut flush with outside of top plate - a plumb cut - and eave is added. Im just finishing a garage (small barn really) that way, with 2x10 5:12 rafters, 2x8 rafter ties, and 2x6 rafter tails.
 
With this deep of a birds mouth one would need to make a deep secondary notch around the boxing or sheet siding further weakening the overhang. I'm sure the framers are careful and use a handsaw to finish their cuts instead of just running their Skilsaw extra deep and they would never think of notching the boxing.
 
 
It's interesting googling the question of how deep, and seeing 1/2 or 1/3 so often.

Made me wonder if a 2x8 meets code, but for insulation I use a 2x12 - can I leave 3/4s of a 2x8? Easier math using rough sawn - half way through a 2x12.
 
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