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Wiring inside Type I hood

TimNY said:
Thank you all for all the constructive input.I left the photos without comment because when I am on the other end of the thread I like to see what everybody else comes up with.

The issues (some of which you see, some are not visible-- you all nailed the ones that are visible) I came up with:

-no seal tight on the EMT entering the hood (contractor states conductors are rated for 90C) MC507.7.1

-fan switch to be wired in parallel with temp sensor (switch can manually turn fan on, but cannot turn fan off if sensor indicate temp above 90F)

-temp switch not wired (see photo, wires just hangin out) MC507.2.1.1

-no grease gutter on hood (nice brackets, though) MC507.11

-no banding on firewrap (non-rated assembly, used only to reduce clearances) ESR-2213

-no fireblocking where duct goes through roof/ceiling assembly ESR-2213; BC712.4.2.1

-no grease cup on exhaust fan MC506.5.2

-no working platform for exhaust fan (did not even look at the fan closely.. I am not a trapeze artist) MC306.5.1

-disconnect for fan? Electrician states toggle switch on hood is disconnect. What about the temp sensor? Sounds like a good way to lose some fingers. Maybe an integral switch; couldn't tell because I wouldn't go up there.

-exhaust outlet does not look to be 40 inches above roof MC506.3.12.1 (looks about 30" to me; will bring a tape measure when they provide a platform)

-AAFES not tied into building fire alarm FC904.3.5

-I questioned NM cable in attic above restaurant. Electrician states it's ok. I noted plywood floor and asked if storage incidental to assembly use. He said he would change.

Tim
Click to expand...
I thought the switch was to be within a certain distance of the appliance? Fans of the type shown normally have a switch under the cap. but, I have seen the electrician wire around that switch. Captive Aire and Greenheck mount a switch on the outside of the fan. No need to remove the motor cover.
 
fireguy said:
I thought the switch was to be within a certain distance of the appliance? Fans of the type shown normally have a switch under the cap. but, I have seen the electrician wire around that switch. Captive Aire and Greenheck mount a switch on the outside of the fan. No need to remove the motor cover.
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I think it has to be within sight, so you can see the guy turning it on right before you lose your fingers. But hey, I'm not the electrical inspector. I held off on that call because I know some of the fans have it under the cap. The toggle (ie typical light switch) fastened to the hood was attempted to be represented as a "disconnect" for the fan "which is required by code" (not a defeat of the temperature sensor.. which wasn't hooked up..) Maybe a sign "scream into duct if fan turned on" should be put on the roof?

steveray said:
I think the NM would be allowable under 100 OL......? My gut went there too...
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The assembly has an OL over 100.

Tim
 
ICE said:
not the way that it was done.
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True.. cable subject to physical damage. I didn't even think about that at the time. Probably too focused on the porcelain fixture hanging by wire nuts on the other end of it.

Tim
 
Disregard then...New place? Change of use? Sprinklers? Will the heat detector even have a chance to detect as the wood and exposed paper face will flash so quickly it might exceeed the speed of light....
 
TimNY said:
My bad, I didn't include it in my original post.. kind of important for that section.
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Not your bad...you didn't install it...For that matter, you aren't even supposed to be inspecting it...You have zero liability.... :)
 
steveray said:
Disregard then...New place? Change of use? Sprinklers?
Click to expand...
Alteration in that it is same footprint, just reconfiguring and adding appliances to <50% of the area.

Tim
 
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