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Television receptacle behind built-in cabinet?

Looks like it will be blocked by the tv mount, it should be closer to one of the corners.
That is a good point, but do you think it's relevant?

Accessible (as applied to equipment).
Capable of being reached for operation, renewal, and inspection. (CMP-1)

Accessible (as applied to wiring methods).
Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or finish or not permanently closed in or blocked by the structure, other electrical equipment, other building systems, or finish of the building. (CMP-1)
 
How do you change the receptacle? Do you remove a built-in cabinet that requires a pry-bar?
The hole in the back of the cabinet provides the necessary access. Looks large enough, and it has little or no overlap with the footprint of the faceplate. So what's the problem?

Cheers, Wayne
 
The hole in the back of the cabinet provides the necessary access. Looks large enough, and it has little or no overlap with the footprint of the faceplate. So what's the problem?

Cheers, Wayne
Fly to Palm Beach next week, and I will give you tools, and you can see how far you get. If you can do it without cutting out a larger hole, or damaging anything and replace the receptacle, I will reimburse you for your flight.
 
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Fly to Palm Beach next week . . .
Would be faster for you to tell me the hole diameter (looks to be 6"?), and the perpendicular to wall offset between the drywall and the face of the back of the cabinet (looks to be 1-1/2"?), and for me to build a mockup here, video myself doing the receptacle replacement, and post that.

However, I'm not going to do any of that, as it is obviously feasible. Best case there's enough wire inside the box that the receptacle can be pulled through the hole to access the side screws. Worst case for the new receptacle you can preinstall pigtails on the screws and connect to the existing wiring with Wago Lever-Nuts.

The CO is not issued yet, and I have a good relationship with the builder for access.
Then your concerns should be satisfied if you ask for a larger hole, e.g. 8". But that request is not justified by the NEC.

Cheers, Wayne
 
Just turn that circle into a rectangle slightly larger than the faceplate. No sawzall hack work, ever seen one of these?
1753371081977.png
 
Would be faster for you to tell me the hole diameter (looks to be 6"?), and the perpendicular to wall offset between the drywall and the face of the back of the cabinet (looks to be 1-1/2"?), and for me to build a mockup here, video myself doing the receptacle replacement, and post that.

However, I'm not going to do any of that, as it is obviously feasible. Best case there's enough wire inside the box that the receptacle can be pulled through the hole to access the side screws. Worst case for the new receptacle you can preinstall pigtails on the screws and connect to the existing wiring with Wago Lever-Nuts.


Then your concerns should be satisfied if you ask for a larger hole, e.g. 8". But that request is not justified by the NEC.

Cheers, Wayne
I am currently out of town attending a funeral and viewing today and tomorrow and I will not return back to work in Florida until Monday. On Monday morning, I will go and get all of the measurements and take photos for your mock up.
 
Squirt some Great Stuff below the outlet just in case you drop a screw. I fact it should wring the hole to keep the cats out. And Jeff, you are a master electrician....or you can enlist Kennedy....give it a realistic effort. None of the O.J. glove shenanigans. Having been an aircraft mechanic. I'm pretty sure that I could tie my shoes through that hole. Have you never seen a ship in a bottle? Oh wait a minute, you are a Marine.... you've seen ships through a bottle.
 
If we're going for the "best" fix, and it's not a question of code compliance, then I would think a remodel box extension like this would be the way to go.
1753392565447.png
 
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