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Girder post

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^

The point. You missed it. :D

I see from your profile you are inspector. What I am asking is this; You visit my job to look at underpinning and floor framing. legitimately, and to code, I have wetset my piers, set and toenailed the 4X4 post to the block, then to plans and to code used a metal saddle to connect the post to a 4 X girder, on which set the joists. Now we know the post is connected to prevent uplift and lateral movement.

But the weak link in the chain is in 2 places. The pier to concrete interface, and the block to pier interface.

You know how I remove old pier blocks for remodels? I just take an 8 pound sledge and give it one good smack, and it comes loose, like 90% of the time. To remove an old block from the pier you just swing your hammer claw under it and pop it off the pier, because its usually just a nail or two holding it from underneath.

But try to remove one of those post connectors. They are the devil to move without practically destroying the thing.

Why be anal about the framing connector and protecting against uplift and lateral movement if you don't carry it all the way to through the system? What criteria do you use to insure the block is wetset properly? Is it one, two, or three inch slump? What if my concrete is almost dry and I just plop it on top of the footing?

Brent.
 
don't do this

AvoidFig_3_DNW-8_T_Strap_on_Post.jpg


AvoidFig_7_DNW-Strange_post_strap.jpg
 
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LOL ^

Oddly enough, last year I looked at a job at a home that was built on a long slope, about 3,500 sq. ft. built in the 60's. Complaint of spongy floors.

Got in the crawlspace and saw that over the years water had slowly worked from the front stemwall and eroded the soil from under most of the piers, so that they were hanging above the dirt. Some had the piers hanging from posts, some had lost the pier, and some had the entire post,pier and 2 foot footing hanging intact. All of it was old school toenailing.

I got an engineer involved to determine what could be done about water rerouting, because I could of course just go in

and remove the whole system and redig, replace everything to new standard, but the problem would just reappear some time later.

That job just evaporated to Home Depot lot work because of the total remediation cost, and my unwillingness to warrant half-assedness for life.

Brent.
 
Here is an example of my preferred method on a small addition I did.

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Thanks for the compliment MtnArch.

I try to get everything as right as possible. Not much room for guys like me anymore though.

Brent.
 
I disagree Brent - there's lots of room for guys like you, but the pool of clients that value quality over the allure of a low bid has shrunk. This is also true on the architecture side - especially with having professional engineers taking projects that should be done by architects. Unfortunately it simply dilutes the quality projects (and earnings) for all of us.
 
I never allow wet setting most of the aggregate will be pushed away from the item wet set and be surrounded by a malt (fines) must be set in place prior to pour. Pier blocks with 2x6 not allowed, can't get positive connection split to easy.
 
I like your "malt" reference. That's something that they all should understand. How do I say malt in Spanish?
 
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