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Inspection of Shower/Tub

T Murray said:
tmurray said: ↑

We always see built in tubs installed at the framing stage. They have insulation and vapour barrier behind them. Same for the electrical panel. I don't understand what would be behind the tub that someone would need to see and cannot because there is insulation in the way.
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It's all part of our insane Energy Code, they are afraid there will be a minute air leak behind the tub.

You better watch out, while we may talk here about how much better your codes are than ours we may invade you and impose our I Codes on you, read about some reasons for conquering Canada.
Zero Hedge said:
Reasons to invade Canada, instead of Syria:

More convenient. Canada is one of two countries where the US could stage a real tank invasion, like Hitler did "Blitzkrieg" America could have "BlingBling" and just roll over their non-existant border
Spoils of war. Canada has it all! Gold, oil, trees, minerals, coal - name it.
Canada may as well be part of US. Who are Canadians? They are the jerks that didn't want to leave the cozy British Empire.
They speak English (although poorly).
Probably will not put up a fight.
Common currency system - "Loonie" can be easily absorbed into USD. All of Canada can be 1 Fed district.
Although USA has invaded hundreds of countries mostly illegally - there's only ONE COUNTRY in the WORLD other than the BRITISH that has ever INVADED USA's borders - and that country is CANADA. In fact, they nearly burnt the white house down to the ground.¹
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¹ http://www.zerohedge.com/news/2017-03-20/time-us-army-invade-canada
 
conarb said:
It's all part of our insane Energy Code, they are afraid there will be a minute air leak behind the tub.

You better watch out, while we may talk here about how much better your codes are than ours we may invade you and impose our I Codes on you, read about some reasons for conquering Canada.



¹ http://www.zerohedge.com/news/2017-03-20/time-us-army-invade-canada
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Our mint actually produces some US currency already when under contract from the US Treasury Department. The video of currency production in the Smithsonian is actually taken from our mint in Canada.

To be fair "burned the White House to the ground" is exaggeration. Canadians, fighting under a British flag, did set fire to the White House and cause significant damage to it, but the reason the White House is white was because it was painted to hide the fire damage when it was rebuilt.
 
jetlag1946 said:
Its not the insulation in the way , they inspect the framing when they do the rough plumbing , electrical, and hvac . Then they ok for the insulation to be installed . Then they come back to inspection the insulation and they dont want the tub or air block in the way . My question is are they going to make a special trip to inspect the air block before I can install the tub/shower ? I will be holding up the dry wall crew while the inspector takes his time of 2 or 3 days to come out .
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I wouldn't. Best to check with them though. The other option is to take photos, so the job is not held up waiting on the inspector to show up. Just check with them first to make sure photos are OK.
 
tmurray said:
Our mint actually produces some US currency already when under contract from the US Treasury Department. The video of currency production in the Smithsonian is actually taken from our mint in Canada.

To be fair "burned the White House to the ground" is exaggeration. Canadians, fighting under a British flag, did set fire to the White House and cause significant damage to it, but the reason the White House is white was because it was painted to hide the fire damage when it was rebuilt.
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But don't you think it would be nice if we liberated you from the Crown so you could have our great codes?
 
Pcinspector1 said:
Francis, What do you give out to the homeowner?
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Short answer: none.

The explanation is Virginia amended Table N1102.4.1.1 (R402.4.1.1) which prohibits many of the materials that would be approved air barriers with footnote c. Air barriers used behind showers and tubs on exterior walls shall be of a (vapor) permeable material that does not cause the entrapment of moisture in the stud cavity.

That causes queries to my office for approved materials aside from meeting ASTM E 2178 as reference in the commercial section of the IECC. The market now has (flexible) fabric material that resemble house wrap.

It is further noted that the IRC does not provide a standard for air barriers other than as specified in the definition. However the caveat for the code official's approval is the code requires the material to be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation guidelines which could eliminates air barriers approved for exterior applications.
 
conarb said:
If you are going to do that, as thick as it is, isn't it better to just sheetrock/plaster the walls and set the tub later?
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Will some one answer the above reply . I would like to use 1/2 green board drywall , I dont think the green comes in 1/4 or 3/8 but I would like that better
 
jetlag1946 said:
Will some one answer the above reply . I would like to use 1/2 green board drywall , I dont think the green comes in 1/4 or 3/8 but I would like that better
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"Installation of water-resistant gypsum backing board is not allowed where directly exposed to water or in areas subject to continuous high humidity."

R702.3.8.1 Limitations. Water resistant gypsum backing board shall not be used where there will be direct exposure to water, or in areas subject to continuous high humidity.

Apparently the code is more restrictive than the most of the manufacturer's installation guidelines.
 
Francis said:
R702.3.8.1 Limitations. Water resistant gypsum backing board shall not be used where there will be direct exposure to water, or in areas subject to continuous high humidity.
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I don't think that area down behind the tub is in 'direct exposure to water' or 'subject to continuous high humidity', for some reason they seem to be using a thin mahogany veneer down there, green board is certainly better than that.
 
conarb said:
I don't think that area down behind the tub is in 'direct exposure to water' or 'subject to continuous high humidity', for some reason they seem to be using a thin mahogany veneer down there, green board is certainly better than that.
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Don't know if jetlag was referring to just behind the tub or for the whole wall.

In any case the handbook and commentary includes that possibility of the material getting wet through cracks and deterioated caulking between assemblies and improper flashing that results in damage and mold from water being absorbed trapped. Just saying, not to agree or disagree.
 
conarb said:
I don't think that area down behind the tub is in 'direct exposure to water' or 'subject to continuous high humidity', for some reason they seem to be using a thin mahogany veneer down there, green board is certainly better than that.
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I agree and that almost always is interior grade plywood . I wish the IRC would just come out and name the materials that are allowed for the air blocker like saying a certain thickness of drywall but not the green water resistant type or a certain thickness of plywood and the type or cement board and the type . Instead it seems that they just make hit and miss comments about properties the material can or can not have . It seems they dont want a vapor barrier but some locations say that is what the inspectors want . I got an estimate for my total house insulation and the man said they use un-faced bates in the walls now , because the faced insulation causes mold and condensation , but i didnt ask him about the tub area . I think I need the air block on the whole wall behind the shower/tub because my bath is 18" wider than the tub (78") and a small door in a partition will allow for plumbing access .
 
Francis Vineyard said:
Don't know if jetlag was referring to just behind the tub or for the whole wall.

In any case the handbook and commentary includes that possibility of the material getting wet through cracks and deterioated caulking between assemblies and improper flashing that results in damage and mold from water being absorbed trapped. Just saying, not to agree or disagree.
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Its hard to explain , but since my tub is not as wide as the distance between the wall corners on each end that the air block would have to continue corner to corner to seal it off . So I guess its okay for the air block to go on up to the ceiling above the tub . If not the moisture air could migrate up to the ceiling in the small closet area .
 
jetlag1946 said:
Its hard to explain , but since my tub is not as wide as the distance between the wall corners on each end that the air block would have to continue corner to corner to seal it off . So I guess its okay for the air block to go on up to the ceiling above the tub . If not the moisture air could migrate up to the ceiling in the small closet area .
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I am going to try to paste a web address , not sure it will work , if not I will try again . Please read and also click on the blue tabs for wm.4.2 moisture resisting---- and also the compliance tab . I am still confused , one place it says mono type tub/shower are exempt on certain things for backing . I think the big issue is tile and sectional shower/tub . I am using the one piece shower/tub . It seems the cement board will work in every case and I will also have a tile shower that will need that . Please open the web addy and see if you can figure what I need behind the one piece combo .
 
I dont see any thing in the link about the thin plywood can be used but I know it is used a lot . The supply here only has pine in the 1/4 . They have a thin underlayment thats not pine and is primed on one side . It is not much more than 1/8 thick . I think they have 1/4 birch but it is interior . I believe the pine exterior would be better. I still cant figure if the green drywall is allowed on the one piece units . It says you can use the paper face on those but another place it says must be the fiber reinforced . we used to call that type c and it was fire rated . Not sure if I can find that near by . I hope some one will check the link and see what I can use . I am in central GA , but I forgot which climate zone .
 
I've seen thin plywood or hardboard used behind fiberglass tub/showers with integral walls. I'd be nervous about using it behind a tub with tiled walls above. If there were any leaks the plywood or hardboard would disintegrate pretty fast. I'd feel better using cement or Hardie backer board.
 
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