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Wall Bracing Question

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tina1510,

AHJ means the "Authority Having Jurisdiction"........In this case
it is who will be reviewing your construction plans \ blueprints
and issuing the bldg. permit.

The wall bracing requirements of R602.10 also include a
fastening requirement to attach the exterior sheathing to the
studs [ i.e. - the connection criteria ].........Table R602.10.4 for
the CS-WSP method, the spacing of the fasteners is listed in
the last column, and the types of fasteners permitted is listed in
the "next to last column", which specifies Exterior Sheathing
to comply with Table R602.3(3).

I am assuming that the 22304 number in your location
means Virginia..........With that I am looking in the 2018
Virginia Residential Code.


Personally I would not rely on the Contractor for means &
methods.........I would want every detail and requirement
listed clearly in a written, enforceable contract, along with
what happens if the contractor does not comply with
the requirements, ...who pays for what, ...how long will
the contractor have to comply, etc.

You ARE going to have a written contract for this project
aren't you ?


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Last edited:
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tina1510,

AHJ means the "Authority Having Jurisdiction"........In this case
it is who will be reviewing your construction plans \ blueprints
and issuing the bldg. permit.

The wall bracing requirements of R602.10 also include a
fastening requirement to attach the exterior sheathing to the
studs [ i.e. - the connection criteria ].........Table R602.10.4 for
the CS-WSP method, the spacing of the fasteners is listed in
the last column, and the types of fasteners permitted is listed in
the "next to last column", which specifies Exterior Sheathing
to comply with Table R602.3(3).

I am assuming that the 22304 number in your location
means Virginia..........With that I am looking in the 2018
Virginia Residential Code.


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Hi,
I really appreciate your response. It helps a lot. I will try to incorporate these information into my drawings.
One more concern regarding the wall bracing. I am not sure what I have at the corner between the garage and the foyer is sufficient (2'-8" as shown)
May I have your input on this location?
Much appreciated!
Tina
 
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tina1510,

I am not sure about what you are asking in regard to the
corner wall section ..........It too will be continuously
sheathed and the appropriate type, size & quantities of
fasteners will be installed.

Respectfully, can you please elaborate ?


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tina1510,

I am not sure about what you are asking in regard to the
corner wall section ..........It too will be continuously
sheathed and the appropriate type, size & quantities of
fasteners will be installed.

Respectfully, can you please elaborate ?


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north star,
This highlighted area in the image below is my concern. I am not sure 2'-8" is sufficient to brace the wall since I have a big opening next to it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
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tina1510,

Thanks for the update !

Since I am not the AHJ or actually present at your location, I
am not qualified to provide you with a specific Yes or No answer.


Q1): If you have all of the other braced wall lines "continuously
sheathed" & the connection criteria is met, can you go and have a
conversation with the AHJ Plans Examiner to ask about your
design ?

Q2): According to the `18 VRC, what is the minimum width of
wall bracing required at the location you have highlighted ?


If you are unsure, then I DO recommend a visit with the AHJ Plans
Examiner, and they should be able to provide you with specific
information on your project, and what is required by them.

I am only looking at your plans from afar.


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If you are having difficulty in understanding and complying with the plan checkers comments an engineer should be able to help you. The engineer will likely make use of the provisions in the IBC which provides more flexibility

I would like to clarify some confusion in a previous posting. While a licensed structural engineer is the gold standard, in most if not all states a licensed Civil Engineer can provide the engineering design of a residential building. It may be that in some states they do not separately license structural engineers. In states that do not license structural engineers separately civil engineers who practice structural engineering may refer to themselves as structural engineers.

Certification of engineers is provided by private organizations and is not required by government bodies. I am not convinced that engineers with certification are necessarily better than other engineers. What you want is an engineer with a good reputation. I would ask an architect, not a contractor, for a reference.

It was suggested that you get a written guarantee that you will get a building permit. While professional engineers take pride in their ability to help you get a permit there rarely may be situations beyond the control of the engineer that may not make this possible. In fact, if an engineer is willing to make a guarantee it suggests the engineer why is not very sophisticated since such guarantees are not compatible with the Errors and Omissions insurance that engineer typically carry.

While it is commendable to want to understand why things are required, trying to do so in this context is not likely to be productive. The IRC gives you a prescriptive solution that the building department will find acceptable but it does not explain why. The provisions in the IBC will give you more insight as to why certain things are required but to understand those provisions you will typically need to take some college level courses. Having said that your engineer should be wiling to help answer your questions.
 
In my admittedly limited experience there is often the desire by homeowners to take on a "small" or "simple" projects because they either (or both) want to save money or learn from the experience. It would seem to the lay person that anybody can put ink on paper and submit plans for a permit, and the reality is that most people probably could do at least as good, or better, than what a lot of drafters submit to us for review. The Residential Code is intended to be a prescriptive code that would allow builders or drafters to design a set of plans that do not require an engineer. The reality is (as is evident by this thread) that the prescriptive measures are far from simple or easy to understand.

@tina1510 I think what I would take away from all of the really good responses on this thread is that you've done a great job so far and you should continue to do as much of this on your own as possible. In order to reach the finish line it might be really beneficial to enlist the help of someone who really understands this subject matter. They could be an engineer, architect, experienced builder/contractor, retired building official, etc... You probably don't need anybody else to take over the design of your plans, and you probably don't need an engineer to do a structural design and/or stamp your plans.

What you could do is sit down with a professional and show them what you have, ask your questions, and get some really clear directions that are specific to your plan. If you can find an engineer who is willing to do this they would likely (hopefully) only charge you an hourly rate to consult with you on your design. You could walk away with clear directions of what to add to your plans that will both satisfy your plan review process, and provide clear direction to your builder once the permit is issued.

Any money you spend consulting with a professional will be well worth it in the big picture.
 
I don't disagree with above but point out in today's economy, it is very difficult to find a registered design professional to "consult" on a owner/builder project. I tried all in the county and the very few who returned calls politely said no thank you. It's unfortunate that help is rarely available at any price.
 
I don't disagree with above but point out in today's economy, it is very difficult to find a registered design professional to "consult" on a owner/builder project. I tried all in the county and the very few who returned calls politely said no thank you. It's unfortunate that help is rarely available at any price.
Yup, I've been hearing that too. That's why I threw in "experienced builder/contractor, retired building official, etc..." as alternatives. But even then it's probably still difficult. I've had one homeowner so bound and determined to get this stuff that I thought they were going to pick up drafting as a profession, hoping so actually. No dice, by the time they got their permit they had zero interest in ever having anything to do with any of this, ever again. There are a couple of retired builders here who help out with stuff like this, but usually only for people they know.
 
"I am not sure 2'-8" is sufficient to brace the wall since I have a big opening next to it."

Make the entire section of wall from the corner to the door a braced panel. A let-in brace might be the easiest way to do this.
 
Thank you all for your advises. Much appreciated. I decided to go ahead and gave this another shot.
"I am not sure 2'-8" is sufficient to brace the wall since I have a big opening next to it."

Make the entire section of wall from the corner to the door a braced panel. A let-in brace might be the easiest way to do this.
Paul Sweet,
Thank you for your recommendation. I revised the plan and indicated at the 2'-8" area to be CS-WSP.
Per your advise, should I change this area to let-in brace?
 
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tina1510,

"Let In Bracing" is another type of wall bracing that could be used,
in-place of the continuous sheathing method.........You could even
do both if there was a contractor who was experienced enough with
the "Let In Bracing" method to do it right.........You might use a Search
Engine to research the term "Let In Bracing" if you are not familiar
with it.

Again, ...I would recommend that you go and discuss your design with
the AHJ ( i.e. - FREE discussion )........They will be the ones to review it
anyway.


Q1): Do you already have an experienced, trustworthy contractor in-mind
or selected ?


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tina1510,

"Let In Bracing" is another type of wall bracing that could be used,
in-place of the continuous sheathing method.........You could even
do both if there was a contractor who was experienced enough with
the "Let In Bracing" method to do it right.........You might use a Search
Engine to research the term "Let In Bracing" if you are not familiar
with it.

Again, ...I would recommend that you go and discuss your design with
the AHJ ( i.e. - FREE discussion )........They will be the ones to review it
anyway.


Q1): Do you already have an experienced, trustworthy contractor in-mind
or selected ?


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North Star,
I have not selected any contractor since I am still new in the area. I need to do some research on this matter.

I revised my drawings and sent it to the reviewer this morning hoping he could provide inputs.

At this 2’-8” area, do you think I could so CS-WSP method instead of let-in? I can use CS-WSP for the whole perimeter for consistency.

Again, always appreciate your input.

Tina.
 
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tina1510,

Thank you for your response !..........At this point I would
stay with the CS-WSP method, because I too like consistency.

Wait to see what the Plans Reviewer comes back with and
go from there.

Respectfully offered, ...because you are new to the area, I would
recommend that you get a notebook and start taking notes on
the various aspects of this project............Ask \ search for "GOOD"
contractors & take copious notes.........Please do not sign anything
until you thoroughly understand every aspect about what you are
signing............You can also come back on here and ask all the
questions that you want...........This Forum is
THE BEST on the
internet, ...bar none !........There are architects, engineers, Building
Officials, Plans Examiners, Designers, Drafts people, and
Inspectors in all disciplines here.

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Why is it "...difficult to find a registered design professional to "consult" on a owner/builder project"?

Let in bracing can only work if the forces are low. Since you will likely be applying sheathing, to at least the exterior walls, why not use the sheathing to give you more strength.
 
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" why not use the sheathing to give you more strength. "
Respectfully, because Let In Bracing is still an acceptable
method in lieu of the Continuous Sheathing method.


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My first thought was that the 10+ ft. section of wall between the foyer and door would be more than adequate, but it is over 10 ft. from the end of the wall.

My second thought was to make the entire section of wall between the upper left corner and the door to the foyer CS-WSP, but that would require the garage to be sheathed before the foyer was framed. (some NoVa building officials can be very strict and literal in applying the code)

Let-in bracing is adequate for NoVa winds, and it is an A seismic zone. The let-in bracing could be installed on the garage side of the wall to go at a 45 degree angle.

The garage will need 1/2" gypsum board to separate it from the foyer. That would also be adequate bracing for NoVa.
 
You haven't mentioned cost? If not a concern you could install a full width moment frame to maximize your opening.
 
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