BATT CEILING INSULATION Unfaced batt installation:
• batts shall be correctly sized to fit snugly at the sides and ends
• batts should fill the cavity
• where necessary, batts shall be cut to fit properly – there should be no gaps, nor should the insulation be doubled-over or compressed. When batts are cut to fit a non-standard cavity, they should be cut to be one inch (1”) wider than the cavity.
• batts should be cut to butt-fit around wiring and plumbing, or be split (de-laminated) so that one layer can fit behind the wiring or plumbing and one layer fit in front
• for batts that are taller than the trusses, full-width batts should be used so that they expand to touch each other over the trusses
• the insulation must cover the wall top plates
• hard covers or draft stops should be placed over all deep drops and interior wall cavities to keep insulation in place and stop air movement. If hard covers or draft stops are missing or incomplete, they should be completed before insulation is completed.
• required ventilation must be maintained: for eaves or soffit vents, one-inch (1”) of unblocked free air space between the roof sheathing and the insulation is required.
• where necessary, use baffles to keep the insulation from blocking the passage of air
• insulation shall cover all IC rated lighting fixtures
• fixtures that are not IC rated (e.g., halogen lamps, heat lamps) need to be enclosed in an airtight box that meets fire codes, and the box covered with insulation. If fixtures are not IC rated and not enclosed in such a box, they should be replaced or boxed before insulation is completed.
• an inch of air space should be maintained between the insulation and roof sheathing, if necessary to meet local codes
• facings and insulation should be kept three inches (3”) away from heated flue pipes or chimneys;