Can the fixture be lifted up and accessed through the hole? Seems very awkward.Beyond that I am curious as to how the junction box that came with the fixture will remain accessible.
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Can the fixture be lifted up and accessed through the hole? Seems very awkward.Beyond that I am curious as to how the junction box that came with the fixture will remain accessible.
I will bet the fixture is face nailed to the blocking.Can the fixture be lifted up and accessed through the hole? Seems very awkward.
It is a slab over a basement. About 1000 sq. ft. 12" thick. No support except the perimeter. The form is 1/2" plywood with posts and beams holding it up. I asked the young man that's in charge where the design of the shoring came from....turns out that it was the crew that's tying steel. 140,000 lbs. of wet concrete will be held up by the best guess of the crew.
I asked for an engineered plan to be submitted for review. Then a structural observation by the engineer. I wouldn't bet on 1/2" plywood making it through the process....but who knows.
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It is lath wire and the bottom window flashing should be on top of the lath paper.Looks like chicken wire, not stucco wire. And I don’t see any flashing around the window.
The wire i have seen has large dimples or bumps every so often to keep it pushed off the plane of the wall. The stuff in the picture looks flat.It is lath wire .
Back to the chicken wire. I did a little research ... what you have is 20 ga wire which is intended for one-coat stucco. I am used to 17 ga wire for 3 coat stucco. Looks very different.
I have done both. I started cutting glu-lams for a shopping center with a chainsaw but the superintendent couldn’t accept that.I have seen them use chain saws in my part of the country on glu-lams and logs