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An average day

The house has a fireplace. It was installed in 1952, or so I'm told.

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Now that the roof has been raised, the chimney is too short. Chimney was added.

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As luck would have it, the contractor had fireplace parts left over from several jobs. They weren't the same diameter and didn't actually fit together so he used tape. He said that it is heat tape. When I said that he can't just tape the outside of a chimney pipe he said , "I know better than that, we taped the inside too"......... No shlt, he said that. I know, I know.....I couldn't believe it either. If there was ever a case where I should be allowed to ask to see his license and then light it on fire.....this is it.

The new vent in no way mates up with the old opening so he heat taped that too. Inside and out.

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There are tabs that the cap rested on. There was no vent section above the opening that the new vent sits on. The gasses and soot ended up in the box at the top of the chimney.

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ESR2376 states there should be 2 layers unless it is GMCraft 60 minute paper.http://www.icc-es.org/reports/pdf_files//ESR-2376.pdf
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R703.6.3 Water-resistive barriers. Water-resistive barriersshall be installed as required in Section R703.2 and,

where applied over wood-based sheathing, shall include a

water-resistive vapor-permeable barrier with a performance

at least equivalent to two layers of Grade D paper.

The individual layers shall be installed independently such

that each layer provides a separate continuous plane and

any flashing (installed in accordance with Section R703.8)

intended to drain to the water-resistive barrier is directed

between the layers.

Exception: Where the water-resistive barrier that is

applied over wood-based sheathing has a water resistance

equal to or greater than that of 60-minute Grade

D paper and is separated from the stucco by an intervening,

substantially nonwater-absorbing layer or

designed drainage space.
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I'm not sure what this means: "intervening, substantially nonwater-absorbing layer." It sounds like another layer of Grade D.
 
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Homeowner called to ask me to fax a service release to Edison for his house. I asked him if we have done an inspection and approved the work. He said that we did that on 1-16-2008 but we didn't send the release to Edison. There has been a temporary hookup for eight years and recently it started to fall apart. He noticed that stuff was acting strange so he called Edison. Edison came out and fixed the loose neutral connection. Edison also told him that he must get a release from the Building Dept so that they can change the open wire drop to a triplex.

In 2008 an inspector signed the final inspection for a bedroom and master bath addition with a service upgrade. That inspector has since retired. Now they want me to release the power. I said that I would only do that after an inspection.

Oh no! The breakers aren't labeled.

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Gas and water pipe didn't get bonded.

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There's two #4 in that lug. And wouldn't you know it, that's all 14 awg NM on 20 amp breakers.

I don't see any arc fault breakers for that new bedroom.

I hope that he understands that the other stuff is for his own safety.

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ARC's were required by the IRC2006 not sure before that if they were required by the 2003?

Just visited CA, stayed in Arcadia, went to the Rose Bowl parade, I did't see you there! Heard you were in that Bernie Sanders march at the end of the parade!
 
ARC's were required by the IRC2006 not sure before that if they were required by the 2003?Just visited CA, stayed in Arcadia, went to the Rose Bowl parade, I did't see you there! Heard you were in that Bernie Sanders march at the end of the parade!
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We didn't use the IRC in 2008. We still don't use the electrical portion of the IRC. This job fell l under the 2005 NEC. That code required ARC fault protection for all circuits in a bedroom. That shouldn't be a big problem to fix here because it appears as though each circuit has it's own neutral.

Who is Bernie Sanders. Is he related to the Colonel?
 
All of the windows have been replaced.

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Drywall screws.

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The contractor insisted that drywall screws are okay. He told me that he has used drywall screws on windows for years without a hitch in his giddy up. I believe him.... because he seems like an honest guy...but mostly because this is his residence. He missed a safety glazing requirement next to the front door.....Been getting that wrong for years too.
 
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This guy is trying really hard to do a good job. With a little bit of advice it should turn out okay. He speaks English so that helps. A service upgrade is next.

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He told me that on the last job of his that I inspected I made him add staples....so he got out ahead of me on this one. Now I'm making him remove staples. He must think I'm a little crazy. That's alright, lots of people do.

It's easy to see that they used the correct length staple for the lath....the entire job is like this. The lath has no furring at all so adding another layer of wire with furring nails should do the trick.
 
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The plumber and electrician hacked the frame on this job and the framer complained about it as we walked the framing inspection.

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The correction said, "Install a structural strap (ST62XX) across the over-bored wall top plates. Place 10 #10 nails or screws 1.5" long on each side of the damage." Now electricians are generally a bit smarter than most other trades. They have to be. While a plumber can get you killed, an electrician can get himself dead right along with you.

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I'm not seeing the top plate??

Why does that strap have to be installed in that location?

Is it being used as a stud guard?

PC1 is confussed :dejection:
 
Why does that strap have to be installed in that location?
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R602.6.1 Drilling and notching of top plate. When piping

or ductwork is placed in or partly in an exterior wall or

interior load-bearing wall, necessitating cutting, drilling or

notching of the top plate by more than 50 percent of its

width, a galvanized metal tie not less than 0.054 inch thick

(1.37 mm) (16 ga) and 11/2 inches (38 mm) wide shall be

fastened across and to the plate at each side of the opening

with not less than eight 10d (0.148 inch diameter) having a

minimum length of 11/2 inches (38 mm) at each side or

equivalent. The metal tie must extend a minimum of 6

inches past the opening. See Figure R602.6.1.

Exception: When the entire side of the wall with the

notch or cut is covered by wood structural panel sheathing.
 
The homeowner said that Lowes installed the water heater. So I told him to take the correction slip to the Lowes store.

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There's something not right about this.

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I think that the previous water heater had a T&P valve located on the top.

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