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An average day

Paul Sweet said:
re: post #3042 - I detailed baffles for outdoor units a couple times. Most manufacturers had minimum clearances above units and recommendations for baffles where you couldn't get the needed clearance. This was back when sales reps actually called on A/E's to keep them up to date and help out with technical issues. The baffle had to be the full size of the unit and be curved or have turning vanes. The baffle in the photos looks the right size, but the turning vanes don't look right.
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Thanks Paul,
Could you be specific as to what the vanes should be .
 
I would have radius-ed the heel of the elbow fitting and dropped down the throat of the elbow and left the vanes out. The picture may be an optical illusion but the opening does not look as large as the top of the unit.
 
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Turning vanes should always be curved. These are straight. Airfoil (double) turning vanes usually create less noise than single vanes, but noise wouldn't be an issue in this application.
A radiused throat is still better, but there might not be enough room to get the recommended radius equal to the depth of the duct.
 
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Roof cricket!
 
With gas lines and electric involved, I would assume that the permitting office knows it's an outside application?
Did they just get the wrong tank-less WH?
 
Photovoltaic array on a roof:

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This picture is from today. You know, I don't walk on tile roofs, steep roofs, high roofs, so I don't see the inside of a lot of junction boxes except for a picture. I can't tell if a c-tap has been installed correctly from a picture....I can't pulll the c-tap off the wires and put it in my pocket. I have quite a collection.

I have come to the conclusion that even if the correct size c-tap is installed with the correct crimp tool, I will still be able to remove the c-tap with my bare hands. That hardly qualifies as an irreversible connection as is required by code.

I'm telling you that these c-taps are junk. I have had them fall off without me touching them and too many inspectors are not aware of the problem and some do not bother to look.
 
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I went to the wrong house today. The inspection was for an electrical service upgrade. I noticed this while I was waiting for someone to answer the door. The lady said that they didn't get a new el service and by the way, you're at the wrong house. So I gave her a correction slip and off I went.

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This was first inspected on 12-19-18. It is now 1-9-19 and nothing has changed. At the first inspection it was just me and the owner. I made it clear to him that he must get the contractor to fix this. The cabinet is mounted over a hole and I left correction to start over and do not leave exposed energized metal. The electrician was there today....I fired him.

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MC with a bonding jumper, haven't seen that one, is that the GC?

Never seen the Hots coiled like that, you okay with that?
 
I asked him why the tape was there. He apologized for not doing it correctly. He said that he has more tape and can fix this while we wait. I asked him again why the tape is there. He said that was to separate the clamp from the armor because of dissimilar metal corrosion.

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He is a genuine electrical contractor that has been at it for more than a few years. He assured me that he has done this hundreds of times and never has anyone asked the question. I believe him....
 
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