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An average day

This panel is mounted with two short lengths of uni-strut. The uni-strut is mounted directly on the plywood shear wall. While not visible in the pictures, bare wood is exposed through the holes in the uni-strut.

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BJN said:
Never know... maybe they wanted to let water in and eliminate the bonding between the metal parts...
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Things stay cleaner when water washes through. This might just be planned obsolescence.
 
ICE said:
Things stay cleaner when water washes through. This might just be planned obsolescence.
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Reminds me of a mobile home panel had to swap out, the "installers" did not use a gasket on the panel top hub, early 1990's ITE 100A meter main, water got in & damaged the aluminum buss to the point that they were only getting 120V, was a Sunday afternoon bootleg swap, & I cursed whoever installed it + doing it hot & one mistake was either going do some damage or do me in, due to the fact that there is no overcurrent protection on those conductors.

Rather funny that am admitting about doing unpermitted work on a forum populated by inspectors, plus it had a Smart Meter I that had to pull.
 
I am not sure what was done with this residential water heater. I think that I have an idea but the owner did the work and within just a few minutes I determined that this will not be a remote virtual inspection.


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The same owner installed three mini-split systems.


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This pair is within the side-yard setback. This project has too much grief built in for me to get involved.


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Is it fair to call a contractor unscrupulous when he installed solar on this roof?

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I don't know what the fitting that they jumped over is. Do you? It is produced by ZURN CO.


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The white ungrounded conductors on the line side of the water heater disco, the use of 3Ø discos, the set screw EMT fittings, the non rain tight EMT fittings, flexible cord used on the mini splits, the list goes on & on.
 
Mech said:
Pressure reducing valve installed upside down? The MC cable is blocking the part number.
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ICE said:
Would that require a jumper?
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I do not know; I do not do electrical work and I do not know the inner workings of a pressure reducing valve well enough. If there are rubber seals at the unions, I could see the need for a jumper as there is an interruption of the metal piping / grounding pathway.
 
Picture at the top of the page, did someone forget some nuts on their anchor bolts? I can't tell what the picture is.
 
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