TheCommish
SAWHORSE
Looks like a drill bit shank
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An average day
- Thread starter ICE
- Start date
steveray
SAWHORSE
I was thinking compatibility and drainage........Seems like the foam is going to be a crap trap.....
mtlogcabin
SAWHORSE
Is that a ground rod or did they get the drill bit stuck and just decided to use it?
fatboy
Administrator
I agree, I also saw that. Drill bit.
It is a stuck drill bit.
Inspector Gift
SAWHORSE
Does a drill bit qualify as ground rod?
The installation instructions call for the foam/glue to be painted due to exposure to UV light. I wonder about flammability. There was a time when I was tasked with approving solar racking installation instructions for LA County. This company's effort would not make the cut.
On the face of it, I understand how the product achieved a UL Certificate Of Compliance. The Miami-Dade NOA is another thing altogether.
Technical | How Does The Solar Stack Work | Solar Stack
Learn more about the technical aspects of Solar Stack on our technical page. For engineers, architects, and experienced homeowners.
solarstack.com
This is the last paragraph of the warranty:
Except as set forth above, SOLAR STACK INC sells the Products on an “AS IS” basis, which may not be free of errors or defects, SOLAR STACK INC SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY CONSEQUENTIAL OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES OF ANY KIND, NOR UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE SHALL SOLAR STACK INC BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES BEYOND THE PRICE OF THE PRODUCT PURCHASED BY PURCHASER, WHETHER IN CONTRACT, IN TORT OR UNDER ANY WARRANTY OR OTHER USE, AND WHETHER OR NOT SAID LOSS, COST, PENALTY OR DAMAGE WAS REASONABLY FORESEEABLE.
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steveray
SAWHORSE
This is great:
I saw that and went looking for the details. I didn't find an answer as to what they were certified to other than UL2703 Safety. However there is a Miami-Dade Notice Of Approval so there is the assumption that a hurricane won't rip it off the building. The installation instructions are so scant on details that I would question whether there is a legitimate Listing or Certificate Of Compliance.
The concept of gluing the array to a roof covering just seems wrong for many reasons.
steveray
SAWHORSE
Paul Sweet
SAWHORSE
The Solar Stack looks like it was installed on a modified bitumen roof with a granulated cap sheet. This or a fully adhered membrane roof should be able to take the uplift. I'd be concerned about an installation on a non-adhered system or a TPO roof that is only fastened at the seams.
Pg. 10 of the instructions says that roof tiles must be cut out to install the pedestals! I can imagine how many leaks that would cause.
Pg. 10 of the instructions says that roof tiles must be cut out to install the pedestals! I can imagine how many leaks that would cause.
The claim is that there are no roof penetrations yet the tile is compromised. The foam will trap water and the underlayment will be put to the test.... forever. Other racking mounts applied on a tile roof that I have seen all have flashing or the tile removed and a legitimate roof covering installed under the array. This method is not something that I would trust. But hey now, that's just my opinion.
As to the placement on a BUR or shingle roof....there are requirements such as a clean surface with no loose granules. Fat chance. I have seen solar on shot roofs. The installer will blow and go with nary a thought of the installation instructions. It's the Wild West out there. Inspectors are expected to stay out of the way.
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Bond the stucco weep screed and the refrigerant pipes.
Remove and relocate the receptacle.
Remove and relocate the receptacle.
The contractor was not at the site.
The deadfront for the service panel is on the ground. The service panel door will not close.
The solar company is located in Massachusetts. I called them. I got a call back from the local installer. I unloaded.
The deadfront for the service panel is on the ground. The service panel door will not close.
The solar company is located in Massachusetts. I called them. I got a call back from the local installer. I unloaded.
This is located at a large project for condominiums. I was there to inspect the installation of the valves. It took an hour.
When it was done I asked them to energize...The water pressure is 150 psi.
Turns out to be backwards. The top has to be removed, rotated and reinstalled. I got a call from the contractor when I was leaving town. He wanted me to return to the site.
When it was done I asked them to energize...The water pressure is 150 psi.
Turns out to be backwards. The top has to be removed, rotated and reinstalled. I got a call from the contractor when I was leaving town. He wanted me to return to the site.
No and neither is the condenser…three inches to spare. The window frames are vinyl.
It's never too late to start over.
The solid #6 originates in a panel and hits the first ground rod:
From there the continuous solid #6 hits a second ground rod and continues to the water main:
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Now that is hard to believe. I can't imagine an electrician doing that and certianly not the pipe-fitter.
